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New Benni Owner-- Winterization Question

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medkid134

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I have 2014 22 slx with an Evinrude Etec Pontoon series 90 HP engine and i am looking for advice on the proper winterization process. (i can't believe how hard it is to find the "proper" process for winterization.) The boat is kept in the water throughout the summer in a salt water bay, in DE, and i pull the boat out for Hard Storage Nov-May each year. I have been having the local marinas winterize and store the boat but for cost reasons i am going to start winterizing the boat myself. I wanted to find out the proper process/procedure and make sure i don't overlook any steps.

This is my plan for winterization and storage, can anyone please tell me if i am missing any key steps or does it look like if i follow this plan the boat should be good to go in the summer. Any help and advice is HUGELY appreciated!

For General End of Summer Boat Care i perform the following:
  • Detailed Cleaning & de-greasing of the floor and seats
  • Vinyl Guard on all the seats
  • wash and wax of the side panels inside and out
  • power wash the toons
  • Wash the Bimini cover and add 303 fabric guard
  • wash the mooring cover and add 303 fabric guard
  • remove everything from the boat
For Winterization this is the list i have been able to find so far:
please tell me if i am missing any key steps.
  • Fill the fuel tank and add fuel stabilizer, prior to pulling the boat. I will run the boat with stabilizer for approx 30 min before hauling to make sure it is circulated.
  • Fill the external Oil Tank with XD 100 oil
  • Run the Evinrude e-tech auto winterization feature (basically fogs the engine)
  • Change the lower Gear lube
  • Replace the fuel Filter
  • replace the drain screws and gaskets
  • remove the prop and check for debris or fishing line, check the gasket. (replace if needed)
  • grease the prop shaft with Triple Guard grease and reinstall the prop
  • New Cotter pin on the prop
  • change the fuel water separator filter
  • remove the battery, store indoors with trickle charge
  • Spray the engine and Rubber Seals with silicone spray
  • Grease the grease fittings on the engine mounts
  • Flush the engine and let it drain
  • Store engine down position
  • Add damp rid and moth balls to interior
  • wrap the boat (after completely dry to prevent mold growth)
  • Re-Apply Bottom Paint
  • store and return in the summer.
Being that this will be my first time winterizing the boat myself, any advice and tips will be a HUGE Help.

Thank you in advance
 
I thought E-Tecs didn't need maintenance for 5 years? Other than that I think you've got it covered.
 
The list looks like over kill when it comes to the motor. Your e-tech actually needs the lower unit oil to be changed every 3 yrs. or 300 hrs.. The new G2's are 500 or 5yrs.. As for the rest,it's a great idea to do the rest as a preventative maintenance program.By doing that,you'll really extend the life of the motor.The e-tech winterization mode is so easy to do. If you have any questions about the procedure,just look it up on YOUTUBE. Good luck with your 1st time!
 
Welcome to the forum! E-tecs are simple... just do the self winterization and put the motor all the way down to drain it out. If you follow your list and flush after the the fact you'll need to re-fog. Lower unit oil is cheap and cheaper insurance if you did get any water in there. Just don't forget any live wells or wash down systems. I just use RV antifreeze for our wash down system. If you hit the 300 mark and go after the plugs just make sure you index them. Your list is detailed and thorough.... following it will definitely keep you covered.
 
So fishing line can't ruin the seal in less than 3 years? I think for $10 a year it's cheap insurance water is not getting in there.
 
Thank you everyone, i really appreciate all your help and fast replies. I know that the list is a bit overkill but i figure some extra preventative maintenance along the way is cheaper than restorative/replacement maintenance down the road. I love how easy Etech is to winterize it is a great engine, powerful, low fuel consumption, low oil consumption, overall great engine hoping some extra maintenance along the way will keep it running that way.

Thanks again
 
A suggestion would be use Mildew Guard by Marine 31 on the vinyl after cleaning. The product has saved our vinyl.
 
I would change the gear lube regardless, I do every year. as lakeliving said, cheap and easy.
 
Yup.......change the gear lube, engine oil, and fuel/water separator every year......
 
That's a good list. Make sure you've completed things like lower unit before you pull your batteries. Don't ask. I prefer to change the water/fuel filter after the first run next season. That way, any moisture accumulated over the winter is trapped by the filter on that first run and then changed. I also change my plugs after the first run because of fogging burn off. I would stay away from silicone based lubricants when spraying the engine. Don't trust them around sensors. Don't forget to get some lubricant on the metal flywheel. It's a bittersweet task, winterizing, but very fulfilling to do it yourself and save a ton of money. Good luck
 
Replace drain screws? Now that's a bit of overkill. Gaskets, most definitely. Make sure you get the old one off, sometime they stick in the recessed hole. Unless they are stripped, save your money on the screws.
 
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