Removing lower covers to route SeaStar hoses.

Rickybobby571

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I have a R25 saltwater and have removed the under covers to attempt to replace the old SeaStar hydraulic lines. Anyone reinstall covers with hex screws? I hate drilling out pop rivets. unbelievable amount of time spent drilling and resharpening drill bits and would never want to do it again. Anyone have experience in replacing the front to rear hoses? I'm getting ready to remove the outside trim from the toon to the deck for access. looking for suggestions. Thanks! Rick
 
Pop rivets can be a pain to drill out when the rivet starts spinning with the drill bit. On the other hand installation is quick and the rivet hangs in there when it loses its clamp force (good failure mode). I chose screws when I added under-deck sheeting to both of my pontoon boats. I did it for serviceability. The pop rivet hole (3/16”) happens to be the tap drill for a 1/4-20 screw. The outside trim is a pain to remove on a Bennington. Bennington trades off serviceability to eliminate visible fasteners. When I removed the outside trim for access I made modification to reattach the trim with small visible fasteners. This attachment method is common in the industry. The fasteners using this method can only be seen when one walks up to the boat sitting on the showroom floor. This attachment method does not meet Bennington’s high aesthetic standards.
 
My dealer tech made a tool to better get the SS rivets out. Basically a modified chisel head for his pneumatic hammer. He can zip right through them without dealing with bits, sounds like a solution borne from many frustrating experiences.
 
Why not just disconnect them at the helm and engine and pull the new hoses tied, duct taped to the old ones? My choice would be to pull the new hoses from the engine side to keep hydraulic oil from getting inside the boat and that mess. I've rigged lot's of boats in my former life and just pulled new hydraulic hoses in my saltwater flats boat in some tight quarters and they pulled very easily with two sharp bends. The key is patience , finesse and not brute force, if they hang up or get stuck just pull back in the other direction and try again. (This works great with two people on each end.) You don't need to remove anything. The current hoses are in a path that the new ones will follow. You just have remember to make sure you have all of the cable ties removed at the helm and the engine.
 
Tried that, super super tight and I could feel pinching on the fish tape line that followed. not sure if there are zip ties that were holding the old lines but it was really hard to pull out the old lines. anyway, I'm pulling the inner covers down now. huge job...
 
My dealer tech made a tool to better get the SS rivets out. Basically a modified chisel head for his pneumatic hammer. He can zip right through them without dealing with bits, sounds like a solution borne from many frustrating experiences.
I think some pictures are in order of that modified chisel rivet head zipper tool....yes?
 
I think some pictures are in order of that modified chisel rivet head zipper tool....yes?

Next time I'm down there and if I remember I'll snap a photo! Although it might be a trade secret and therefore I run the risk of falling out a dealership window or off the end of the pier "accidentally".
 
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