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Scissor trailer decision

Dan S

Dan S

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Minnesota but boat in NW Wisc.
I'm at the point where I'm purchasing a trailer for my 21SLX with a 115 Yamaha with undersheeting and open strakes. Originally I was going to purchase a bunk trailer but I don't have the height through the doors on my pole building so scissor trailer here I come. I'm going to purchase a trophy trailer. The only question is should I purchase their 22-45 or the 22-47. The only difference between the two is the longitudinal supports that the boat rests on are 2" further apart on the 47. At first glance that seemed the way to go. However there's only 52" of space between the pontoons leaving only 5" of space and some of that is taken up by the vertical rollers that run from front to back for the toons to roll against. Near as I can calculate, if I go with the 47, I'll have only 1-2" of space between the toons and the rollers - pretty tight. The other issue is that the distance between the outside sidewalls of the 2 tires on each axle is 48". That's only 2" from the tire to the toons/strakes, if I get the boat exactly centered on the trailer every time. What widths have some of you used? Anyone used the 45" or 47". Thanks
 
I'm not familiar with the specifics of the two versions you describe, but I'll weigh in based on my past experience.

I couldn't wait to get out of my scissors trailer, but I understand your reasons.

While the widest base is best for when you are on the road, I think the most important consideration should be what the typical conditions are when you are loading your boat. Currents? Wind? Quick drop off? All will affect how your boat goes on the trailer. If you have to encounter these conditions, the more room between the tubes you have to work with, the better.

My 2 cents. PS, I don't miss my scissors trailer one bit.
 
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A local marina had a doofus pick up a boat with their scissor trailer and almost flipped it on it's side so pay attention to loading and where your motor pod is. Is there a way you can try both before you buy? Is this a local dealer that can do this for you?
 
Do you have room in your pole building for a taller door? I had same problem when i bought my boat with standard bunk trailer, so i had a door company come out and remove the existing door, then I reframed the door opening with new header. The door company come out and reinstalled the old door and added on more panel giving me an additional 20" of clearance. They had to redo the track, hardware and opener, but it was only about $400. I may have $200 -$300 in lumber hardware and paint. One weekend and boat fits in pole barn.
 
ricks 0712 said:
Do you have room in your pole building for a taller door? I had same problem when i bought my boat with standard bunk trailer, so i had a door company come out and remove the existing door, then I reframed the door opening with new header. The door company come out and reinstalled the old door and added on more panel giving me an additional 20" of clearance. They had to redo the track, hardware and opener, but it was only about $400. I may have $200 -$300 in lumber hardware and paint. One weekend and boat fits in pole barn.
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Most excellent advice.

My new barn has a 13' high door with low clearance (1' clearance from ceiling) rails. My boat, on a bunk trailer, fits in with the top fully open. I know that's not your situation, but as Rick says, you may be able to retrofit.
 
Scissors trailers are okay for a dealer to move boats around the lot--on the ground.  I would never use one as a pontoon boat owner, however.  They're too unroadworthy.

If your doorway is too low, would using 10" but wide E rated trailer tires lower your boat enough to get through the door?

The only other option might be to add on a taller "lean to" on  the pole barn
 
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