Trailer Brake Controllers

[gnc1017]

Yup, got it from Miller, and yes it is a Yacht Club trailer. Model number PTB2244T. I'll have to ask someone at the dealership, maybe I don't need the controller after all. Thanks again for the great info everyone!

If surge brakes, you won't need a controller but if it will have disc brakes, you will likely need a 5-wire trailer connector. It has an extra signal from the vehicle (still no controller on the vehicle, just the wiring connector / adapter with an additional 5th reverse wire) that engages the reverse brake lock-out solenoid. This solenoid disengages the touchy disc brakes when backing up, especially on an incline, which to my understanding is a must for hydraulic surge disc brakes.

Our previous runabout trailer had drum brakes and the reverse lock-out was mechanical but if you have that and are in a hilly area, not sure that would be adequate or desired for you either (you may still need/want the electric lock-out solenoid even with drum brakes). Wasn't an issue for us but if a possibility for you, I'm sure others on here could offer more info on that configuration if necessary.

Realizing this is a slightly separate issue from the question but something to keep in mind regarding the wiring connection to the vehicle...

 

[dano]

I also have the yacht club trailer. Surge brakes, no controller needed.

 

[Holdren23]

Mine is a yacht club trailer to. Surge brakes no controller needed

 

[Great Dane]

If surge brakes, you won't need a controller but if it will have disc brakes, you will likely need a 5-wire trailer connector. It has an extra signal from the vehicle (still no controller on the vehicle, just the wiring connector / adapter with an additional 5th reverse wire) that engages the reverse brake lock-out solenoid. This solenoid disengages the touchy disc brakes when backing up, especially on an incline, which to my understanding is a must for hydraulic surge disc brakes.

Our previous runabout trailer had drum brakes and the reverse lock-out was mechanical but if you have that and are in a hilly area, not sure that would be adequate or desired for you either (you may still need/want the electric lock-out solenoid even with drum brakes). Wasn't an issue for us but if a possibility for you, I'm sure others on here could offer more info on that configuration if necessary.

Here is a pic of the plug on the Yacht Club trailer, my truck has a different round plug though. I was told that I need to get a 5 to 7 adapter, and everything will be great.

Realizing this is a slightly separate issue from the question but something to keep in mind regarding the wiring connection to the vehicle...

 

[TomS]

That fifth pin is for reverse lockout. No controller needed.

 

[Great Dane]

This it the plug-in on the back of the Suburban.

 

[TomS]

Just get a 7 to 5 pin converter from e-trailer.com and you're good. I used to have an '04 Burb with the Malibu ski boat and had no issues.

 

[Great Dane]

Just get a 7 to 5 pin converter from e-trailer.com and you're good. I used to have an '04 Burb with the Malibu ski boat and had no issues.

Sweet! That will save me a few bucks!

 

[WoodenPontoon]

Surge brakes are great to use.  As stated no controller is needed, but make sure the trailer has the electric backup lock-out.

The trailer should have a manual lock-out pin, which when inserted into the hitch will prevent the compression of the brake actuator on the trailer and thus prevent the brakes from working.  If your trailer does not have the electric over-ride, you will have to use the locking pin when attempting to backup.  (Use a wheel chock to block the forward motion of the trailer while gently driving forward.  This should stretch the trailer tongue enough to engage the locking pin.)