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Amp Rack

Well there ya go! I always just called it good one side plywood! I know, pretty inventive! I was told to try and find birch, marine, Baltic, regular, in that order of preference. All they have here is birch veneer plywood, not sure what all that means.
 
Face is a Birch veneer, usually the ply's are fir, pine, ash, whatever they have laying around ....... Marine is solid core, no voids, with waterproof adhesive/resin used.
 
A/B= Good Two Side

A/C= Good One Side

In Birch or Hardwood faces, typically they are solid veneer sheets with no repairs (Stain grade). A or B

In Fir or YP (softwoods), it typically has "football" plugs or bondo patches B/C
 
http://www.polymerindustries.com/marine.shtml select colors to see options

That is the marine board to use. We use it for custom tablet enclosures for restaurants. On our 2275GCW I used it under the helm to secure all of my electronics. I also placed an alpine powered marine sub http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-m100 in the front wall of the helm where it meets the front seating. By placing it firing into the storage part of the seating compartment it actually amplified the resonance of the base.

As for the marine board it is not very expensive if you're buying bulk. We have to buy it in a 4'x8' sheet but if there are enough interested people on here I could order a sheet and have it cut into blanks for your usage. For those of you wanting color see http://www.polymerindustries.com/play.shtml and choose colors.

Just let me know.
 
I haven't mounted an amp in my boat but for my last couple of trucks I have used cutting boards as amp racks. They are cheap, at every walmart, strong, never rot and screws go in like butter.
 
I would need a very big cutting board! Got power, ground, battery monitor cable and speaker wire for the 2 subs run today. Damn tight fit pulling P+G+M cable up through the hole all at once! P+G are just shy of 3/4" thick, plus loom, EACH! But we did it. Might have the layout of the batteries and charger figured out and need to figure out how to get a plug out of the starboard lounger for the charger, and a little wire from starboard to port lounger. Then I need to cut, glue, and pray, not necessarily in that order! Here is a picture of the possible amp layout, just don't know if it would be to tight to adjust gain and other controls.
 
Oops, wrong button!

 
As to your comment need to cut glue and pray, as PDX said, you want to glue furring strips up and then screw the backboard to the furring strips. Let the liquid nails adhesive dry at least overnight; 48 hours is better before attaching anything to them. The strips should be placed such that there is some forgiving in placement of the backboard. Also if you plan on routing any wiring through the backboard, keep in mind this only works if the furring strips are not directly behind said area.

While you are at it, might be a good idea to take another furring strip and glue it in such a manner as to allow for securing wires along the run from your backboard to the point of entry under the helm. Neatness counts!
 
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Here's what I did on my ski boat.  I bought a sheet of HDPE plastic (such as King Starboard).  You can order it from US Plastics online.  I bought the 1/2" thick stuff and cut it down.  I glued a piece of Trex decking to the hull as a furring strip using Gorilla Glue 2-part epoxy, and screwed the HDPE sheet into the Trex.  It holds great.  The amps and other stuff screw into the HDPE.  Here it is installed:

2014-05-14221549.jpg
 
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