Another Sharkhide Question

Noah Genda

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After reading all the posts and viewing the pictures online, I have decided to go after polishing my toons with Gords and then apply some number of coats of Sharkhide.  

But I'm a bit puzzled.  My tritoon is on a trailer, which limits access.  I understand polishing the areas visible to the public.  That makes sense.  However, do I only apply Sharkhide to the newly polished area?  I have a 25 foot RCW.  How much Sharkhide should I purchase?

My boat is on a lift during the season.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
The factory applied it to all 3 inside and outside  on my new order .

Last year the factory did the 2 tubes and my .transom /motor pod ..

When it is time for me to reapply it is going on all 3 inside and out 
 
I applied my own Sharkhide, and used 1 quart. Two coats on all three tubes, underdeck skinning, and inside and outside the transom. The only area not covered was the bottom of the tubes where it sits on the trailer supports. Getting inside between the three tubes is a lot of fun!
 
My understanding is when aluminum oxidizes, the oxidized layer then seals it from further oxidation, unlike iron that continues to rust. So to me, Sharkhide is purely cosmetic. No need to do the insides of the toons or shield or anything you can't see. Correct me if I'm wrong on that.
 
Good question though. I was not planning to sharkhide anything I can't see... Would be good to know for sure though.
 
When you look at an old aluminum boat the oxidation appears to be darker, so it seems to me that it continues to oxidize but at a much lesser rate. A neighbor of mine has an older pontoon, maybe late 90's, and it is really dark, much darker than another neighbors boat that is about half the age. I Sharkhided areas like the transom and underdeck skinning just to keep it from turning at all, and yes, Sharkhide's whole purpose  is cosmetic. All it does is keep the aluminum from oxidizing. I would like to keep my new Bennie looking delivery-day new for quite some time, and the Sharkhide will help.
 
Good point. If the boat is new, put it everywhere.

I'm not going to take the time to polish the belly of my two year old boat, so I won't waste the sharkhide.
 
I like the polished look too, but IF I can maintain it like it is now I'll be happy. The polishing is a little more than I want to do. The top rail of my Tracker PT 190 has to be polished regularly, and that has convinced me to keep polishing to a minimum. I Sharkhide the top rail and the hull, and the top rail needs it every year while the hull goes 2-3 years. Weird, not sure what the difference is. The new Tracker bass boats have a finish called Diamondkote (I think that is the name), a clear finish, so the aluminum doesn't oxidize. I'm not sure if they use that on their pontoon line or not, but if it holds up on the bass boats that would be a great finish to have on a pontoon!
 
Sharkhide is only cosmetic?  I was under the impression it helped prevent more than just oxidation.  Doesn't it keep lake crud that slows the boat off of the toons?  What about oxidation itself . . . does that create any drag over a clean toon?
 
It does NOT prevent "crud".
 
That is why we keep ours on a lift. No crud and no scrubbing during the year.
 
With the proper polish and Porter Cable d/a polisher, I can get the outside of my toons three nose cones and the rear of my Bennie polished in 90 minutes with minimal effort. 

But using lacquer cleaner and rags, it'll take me a whole day + to get the black oxide off my toons to where I can apply Sharkhide.  I'm just not willing to work that hard.

I'm just going to pull my boat every May and polish the toons without using Sharkhide.
 
I used white lightning too and didn't have much trouble with the black stuff. Just let it dry, and it came off like dried wax with a dry rag. I did not use Sharkhide after that though. Is that where you get the problem?
 
It will start oxidizing the minute you finish polishing. You can do like Bamaman and do a quick polish every spring, or clean off the residue after polishing and apply Sharkhide and get an extra couple years before you touch it again. I checked the Tracker website www.trackerboats.com/about/#paintprocess , about half way down the page, and it appears their finish Diamond Coat  is a powdercoat finish. Apparently it is used only on their traditional boat hulls.
 
It does NOT prevent "crud".
Even if it doesn't "prevent" crud, I was thinking having the Sharkhide layer on there would make it easier to clean off the crud during the season, or when pressure washering it at the end of the season.  What experience does anyone have with that?
 
Last year I wiped mine down weekly at the sand bar with a car sponge and no effort ,stayed clean all season .

I believe it does make it easier .

I also had no loss of speed as others have mentioned .
 
Even if it doesn't "prevent" crud, I was thinking having the Sharkhide layer on there would make it easier to clean off the crud during the season, or when pressure washering it at the end of the season.  What experience does anyone have with that?

Last year I wiped mine down weekly at the sand bar with a car sponge and no effort ,stayed clean all season .

I believe it does make it easier .

I also had no loss of speed as others have mentioned .

Yes that is correct.  After polishing my tritoon last year I then applied Sharkhide metal protectant.  This made it way easier to wipe the algae/scum off of it after the season was done and I do not have a lift....it stays in the water all season.  Once I pull the boat out in October I immediately take it to a self-serve car wash and use their power washer and it was effortless with that....I was able to make quick strokes with the power washer and did all three tubes in like 10 minutes.  I am going to polish my toons again this year and absolutely 100% will be applying Sharkhide again once I am done before it goes in the lake for the season.  It's a no-brainer.  Sharkhide goes on so quickly...you just use the diapers they sell to apply it.  Just put it on by hand (with the diapers) and you are done.  Piece of cake.
 
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