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Dual Battery Setup/Battery Switches??

Reviving this....

Are you guys just turning off your master power switch at the helm off at night, when going back out the next day? Or are you turning the master off at the helm as well as the switch under the seat?

I figure going home for the weekend ill shut it all down, but what about at night...what are you guys shutting off on day 1 of a weekend
 
I shut it off at master cut off every time. Such minimal effort to ensure no “surprises“ the next day.
 
SEMPERFI8387 said:
I shut it off at master cut off every time. Such minimal effort to ensure no “surprises“ the next day.
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I do the same as Semper. Dash shut off doesn’t actually shut off all battery draw.

I also found that the addition of Sea Legs (and similar set ups - Ultra or Hewitt legs) is a significant item that circumvents dash shut off but can really draw down the battery their connected to.
 
DejaWiz said:
Battery switch will be near the battery itself, and allows you to completely cut the electrical from the entire boat, including the engine.

Dual battery works the same, just wires in a second battery that allows you to switch back and forth.

Master Power is located on the helm, and cuts off all power to the other helm accessory switches, but still allows power from the battery to the engine.
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Master Switch - Which I believe results in eliminating most common causes of phantom electrical pulls, but allowing you to trim the boat engine.
 
I would have thought the factory dual set up would wire one battery to the motor and the other for “everything else”. Is that not how it is done?

I wired our old boat like that. They were 2 independent systems when motor was off. When motor was running, it would charge both. There was a switch to toggle batteries batteries separate, combined, off.

maybe this is different than their dual setup??

edit... this is what I installed. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue...ImiaafRC5royWEWBvo7YsfXRS7jSXVHxoCz_IQAvD_BwE
 
dshannon11 said:
I would have thought the factory dual set up would wire one battery to the motor and the other for “everything else”. Is that not how it is done?
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This is not how it is done.

The factory dual battery hook up and switch has “Off, bat 1, bat 2, bat 1+2” settings. Wherever you have it set, the battery(s) power the entire boating system. The batteries ARE NOT separated, 1 for motor, and 1 for everything else.

Now if you wire something aftermarket differently, that item MIGHT draw from just one battery in regards to a trickle phantom draw when not in use.

For instance, Sea Legs, Ultra Legs, Hewitt Legs are typically hooked up directly to battery 1. That creates a small trickle draw when not in use unless the Perko switch is turned to “off” when not in use. Master switch at the helm still allows power to motor and add ons like Sea Legs... I found that out the hard way our first summer with the Sea Legs.
 
Vikingstaff said:
This is not how it is done.

The factory dual battery hook up and switch has “Off, bat 1, bat 2, bat 1+2” settings. Wherever you have it set, the battery(s) power the entire boating system. The batteries ARE NOT separated, 1 for motor, and 1 for everything else.

Now if you wire something aftermarket differently, that item MIGHT draw from just one battery in regards to a trickle phantom draw when not in use.

For instance, Sea Legs, Ultra Legs, Hewitt Legs are typically hooked up directly to battery 1. That creates a small trickle draw when not in use unless the Perko switch is turned to “off” when not in use. Master switch at the helm still allows power to motor and add ons like Sea Legs... I found that out the hard way our first summer with the Sea Legs.
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Thanks Jeff,

I guess that is not terrible as we can just use Bat 1 and then switching to Bat 2 if needed.

Thanks!
 
dshannon11 said:
Thanks Jeff,

I guess that is not terrible as we can just use Bat 1 and then switching to Bat 2 if needed.

Thanks!
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You’re welcome! There were a couple really good dual battery usuage discussion this past summer. Try searching for them. To maintain balanced use and battery life, its good to try to use both somewhat equally. Lots of people on here each have their own system that is somewhat aligned to how they use their boat: alternating which battery they use each trip out, or each week out, just running off both all the time, running off of one for running the entire boat AND motor, and switching to just the other one when sitting and using accessories while motor is off (then rotating next trip out), etc...

My strategy/usage: when I know I am going to be running the motor the entire outing (or nearly the entire outing) I just put it to bat 1+2. When I know I will kill the motor and anchor, drift, etc... then I try alternating by using bat 1 on that trip, but then switching to bat 2 the next trip out. Not sure that’s really a great strategy, but its what I do.

I do need to keep track of it a bit more as I have sea legs, and they do have a small constant draw on bat 1 at all times when bat 1 is in play. That has added an important factor into my useage these past two years that I didn’t have to worry about before. It certainly has caused me to be very on top of turning my battery switch to off after EVERY boat trip out.
 
Vikingstaff said:
You’re welcome! There were a couple really good dual battery usuage discussion this past summer. Try searching for them. To maintain balanced use and battery life, its good to try to use both somewhat equally. Lots of people on here each have their own system that is somewhat aligned to how they use their boat: alternating which battery they use each trip out, or each week out, just running off both all the time, running off of one for running the entire boat AND motor, and switching to just the other one when sitting and using accessories while motor is off (then rotating next trip out), etc...

My strategy/usage: when I know I am going to be running the motor the entire outing (or nearly the entire outing) I just put it to bat 1+2. When I know I will kill the motor and anchor, drift, etc... then I try alternating by using bat 1 on that trip, but then switching to bat 2 the next trip out. Not sure that’s really a great strategy, but its what I do.

I do need to keep track of it a bit more as I have sea legs, and they do have a small constant draw on bat 1 at all times when bat 1 is in play. That has added an important factor into my useage these past two years that I didn’t have to worry about before. It certainly has caused me to be very on top of turning my battery switch to off after EVERY boat trip out.
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Thanks, i will search for more threads.

So if you have bat1 selected and motor running, bat2 is “cut off” and won’t charge. That is an issue for me! I can easily fix by installing that device I posted previously but sucks it could affect warranty.

You may want to look into that device I posted to as it will definitely fix your issue with sea legs by keeping batteries separate (unless you switch to combined) but charging all batteries when motor is running. You could even install a separate cut off for that sea leg battery to prevent drain.

Thanks
 
This is a little off topic, but per the post above: I just installed a battery switch at the helm to cut power to all items controlled from the helm EXCEPT there is no effect on starting/running the motor. I've been wanting to do that for a long time. The rocker switches at the helm are way too easy to trip on...even a little wind luffing of the helm cover can do it.

Discovered that turning ON one of the "acc" switches that I though was used for the radio kills power to the GPS (that switch must be off for the GPS to work). Guess that's something to dig into some other day.

BTW: water temp here at Lake Keowee was in the very low 50's. It is now about 60F! Woohoo! Still along way to go for the mid 80's of summer...
 
dshannon11 said:
Thanks, i will search for more threads.

So if you have bat1 selected and motor running, bat2 is “cut off” and won’t charge. That is an issue for me! I can easily fix by installing that device I posted previously but sucks it could affect warranty.

You may want to look into that device I posted to as it will definitely fix your issue with sea legs by keeping batteries separate (unless you switch to combined) but charging all batteries when motor is running. You could even install a separate cut off for that sea leg battery to prevent drain.

Thanks
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This, exactly. I just had mine installed.

The standard Blue Sea 4-position switch that comes from the factory is fine, but inferior to the ACR setup.

Factory setup - battery 1 or 2 selected, no use or charging on the opposite battery. Forces you to alternate over time so both batteries maintain a charge. Both 1 AND 2 can be selected, but you could drawn down both batteries and be stranded.

ACR setup - #1 is aways house, #2 is always start. The combiner allows charging to BOTH batteries as long as your starting battery is above 12.7 V if I recall. Below that the combiner is open only allowing charge to your start battery. If you house is below 9.7V the combiner will lockout because it assumes there is a major problem and will protect your start batt. There is an emergency combine position on the switch, similar to the 1+2 on the 4-position switch.

Final benefit - sometimes sensitive electronics can be effected by starting the engine (chartplotter for example), so the ACR / dual battery allows you to have your house voltage unaffected by starting.


I thought this video does an excellent job of explaining the difference.


 
Potomacbassin’ said:
This, exactly. I just had mine installed.

The standard Blue Sea 4-position switch that comes from the factory is fine, but inferior to the ACR setup.

Factory setup - battery 1 or 2 selected, no use or charging on the opposite battery. Forces you to alternate over time so both batteries maintain a charge. Both 1 AND 2 can be selected, but you could drawn down both batteries and be stranded.

ACR setup - #1 is aways house, #2 is always start. The combiner allows charging to BOTH batteries as long as your starting battery is above 12.7 V if I recall. Below that the combiner is open only allowing charge to your start battery. If you house is below 9.7V the combiner will lockout because it assumes there is a major problem and will protect your start batt. There is an emergency combine position on the switch, similar to the 1+2 on the 4-position switch.

Final benefit - sometimes sensitive electronics can be effected by starting the engine (chartplotter for example), so the ACR / dual battery allows you to have your house voltage unaffected by starting.


I thought this video does an excellent job of explaining the difference.


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Hey. Would you please send pictures of the installation in your pontoon and do you have a cranking battery and the other is a deep cycle??
watching the video he said
#1 is cranking? #2 is house?
In Your post you said arc #1 house #2 is crank? Was yours done the opposite or or am I’m confused. Lol
Also could you tell us what gauge wires they used and lengths.
im gonna try to do this myself lol.
Please show as much as possible with pictures maybe even what parts they used for battery mount the other parts they mounted.
I know I’m asking a lot but it would help me and others.
Unless you know of another video that shows the complete I stall
Thanks
 
Rssuttle said:
Hey. Would you please send pictures of the installation in your pontoon and do you have a cranking battery and the other is a deep cycle??
watching the video he said
#1 is cranking? #2 is house?
In Your post you said arc #1 house #2 is crank? Was yours done the opposite or or am I’m confused. Lol
Also could you tell us what gauge wires they used and lengths.
im gonna try to do this myself lol.
Please show as much as possible with pictures maybe even what parts they used for battery mount the other parts they mounted.
I know I’m asking a lot but it would help me and others.
Unless you know of another video that shows the complete I stall
Thanks
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I'll try to remember next time I'm on the boat.

FYI the ACR is dual sensing so it's my understanding what is #1 and #2 (A/B) doesn't matter - it will see the charged start battery and combine or open the contact to the house based on voltage conditions. Instructions are very clear and provide wire gauge based on alternator amps - mine is #4 based on 70a alternator.

PITA factor for the dealer was running the start isolation wire to the ignition, but that's optional. Without that it should be very straighforward.


D74A511C-D09B-4D62-90A6-86CF0ACCD161.jpeg
 
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I always turn mine to 1&2 and if I'm going to sit for a while with the radio or lights on I switch it to one or the other so I don't kill both of them, really minimal effort and don't have to install some alternate charging system
 
The Hillbilly Barge said:
I always turn mine to 1&2 and if I'm going to sit for a while with the radio or lights on I switch it to one or the other so I don't kill both of them, really minimal effort and don't have to install some alternate charging system
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This seems like the best setup for me as well; always ensures both batteries are charging and if I park and anchor for a while with accessories going, switch it to 1 or 2, and then ride back to the house with that same battery selected to ensure a charge on the way back.

I have friends with pontoons that have a single battery. Talk about an "upgrade" that I am very glad I made with my Benny.
 
Running 1+2 and then switching to 2 at the sandbar probably is fine 99% of the time. But if you deeply discharge the house at the bar, then switch back to 1+2 on the run home your start will equalize to the lower voltage on the house - and charge time may not be sufficient by the time you get to the dock/ramp.

Add in the possibility of a bad cell on either battery when they get older, and it becomes more risky.

Now before anyone jumps down my throat about being chicken little, I'll again state this probably works fine most of the time. But the general consensus is that 1+2 is really meant for an emergency - you lose the advantage of having two isolated batteries when you combine them. Effectively you just have one big battery at that point and problems in one will then impact both.

A lot of the internet advice for the standard Perko is to simply alternate between 1 and 2 on trips so both are getting charged and the other is fresh for an emergency start. If running 1+2 I would have a lithium jump battery with me just in case.
 
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Potomacbassin’ said:
I'll try to remember next time I'm on the boat.

FYI the ACR is dual sensing so it's my understanding what is #1 and #2 (A/B) doesn't matter - it will see the charged start battery and combine or open the contact to the house based on voltage conditions. Instructions are very clear and provide wire gauge based on alternator amps - mine is #4 based on 70a alternator.

PITA factor for the dealer was running the start isolation wire to the ignition, but that's optional. Without that it should be very straighforward.


View attachment 29758
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Thanks I’m mounting the blue sea add a battery. It comes with switch and the arc that controls the charge automatically. Same as yours. I’m running just a cranking battery now. Putting the deep cycle battery in soon a vmax MR137-120ah. It also has cca or mca of 900
 
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