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Front Powered Bimini on 22RTFB

So how’d you get the port wire to the starboard helm power/switch??
 
There is a wire bundle conduit going from the port side to the starboard side under the deck. Easy access to snake the wire.
 
I will add a comment on power Bimini wiring. When I added the electric actuators to the top of the boat up north I choose to have equal length wire running from the switch to each actuator. I did this to insure equal current flow to each actuator. The extra length of wire running to the starboard side was coiled under the console. When I got my new Bennington last summer I noticed they did the same thing. On a side note when I examined other boats to get circuit breaker size for the boat up north I noted that a 4 amp breaker was used. My new boat in the cities came with a 6 amp breaker. In my case both tops operate just fine but I wonder if this is why some folks report circuit breaker issues.
 
jackpita said:
Installed a front SureShade Power Pontoon Bimini Top on my 2021 22RTFB (https://store.lci1.com/sureshade-power-bimini-power-bimini.html), with rear factory powered bimini already installed. Mounted the bimini facing forward. Some pictures on the web have it mounted backwards that has the bimini in the arch position slanting to the bow of the boat. I think mounting in normally with the arch slanting aft, like the rear bimini (see pictures) looks better. Also installed the 36" support arms to support the bimini when in the arch position (https://store.lci1.com/sureshade-sport-arms-for-power-bimini-36in-silver-2020134627.html). Install fairly easy. Routing the wires through the railing and into the helm was the most time consuming. Spliced the positive and negative leads into the same wire that powers the rear bimini. The kit comes with a remote and a wireless controller which mounts under the helm. The controller also has a small toggle switch that controls the Bimini should the remote fail. Next projects will be to add front straps for higher speeds (20 mph max speed without front straps), and to replace one of the spare switches on the helm with a 3 position switch to control the bimini. Very pleased with the results.
Click to expand...
I like this idea and after getting a quote from Bennington for a factory front Bimini add on I really like it, so I have ordered one from West Maine and will post after I receive it and install it.
 
lakeman said:
I like this idea and after getting a quote from Bennington for a factory front Bimini add on I really like it, so I have ordered one from West Maine and will post after I receive it and install it.
Click to expand...
Did u ever install yours? Curious of your observations on wiring etc.
 
jackpita said:
Installed a front SureShade Power Pontoon Bimini Top on my 2021 22RTFB (https://store.lci1.com/sureshade-power-bimini-power-bimini.html), with rear factory powered bimini already installed. Mounted the bimini facing forward. Some pictures on the web have it mounted backwards that has the bimini in the arch position slanting to the bow of the boat. I think mounting in normally with the arch slanting aft, like the rear bimini (see pictures) looks better. Also installed the 36" support arms to support the bimini when in the arch position (https://store.lci1.com/sureshade-sport-arms-for-power-bimini-36in-silver-2020134627.html). Install fairly easy. Routing the wires through the railing and into the helm was the most time consuming. Spliced the positive and negative leads into the same wire that powers the rear bimini. The kit comes with a remote and a wireless controller which mounts under the helm. The controller also has a small toggle switch that controls the Bimini should the remote fail. Next projects will be to add front straps for higher speeds (20 mph max speed without front straps), and to replace one of the spare switches on the helm with a 3 position switch to control the bimini. Very pleased with the results.
Click to expand...

Excited to find this post @jackpita you have motivated me to do this! You are the first bowrider I have seen with this option. I will be adding to a 2020 R24 RTFB Bowrider. I have a few more technical questions not addressed in this post and confirmations for the bowrider.
Would love input from Jack or anyone who’s done the front setup on a bowrider. I tried my best to read through the entire post and Jack's pics were awesome! Here is what is unanswered:

1) My R24 rails are about 1 ft longer at both bow and stern the Jack's R22, so the front peek-a-boo rail section gives more straight length before the curve. Do you think that extra length is still sturdy enough? On the R22 did you add backing plates or gussets under the rail mounts?

2) Because of the extra length, my gap between front and rear biminis will be about a foot larger – I figure that’s good for clearance and shade. How tight is your gap on the R22 when both canopies are up looks like a foot or two. I actually prefer some gap as the shade is cast from the front.

3) Looks like you spliced into the rear bimini feed before the switch so they can run independently. I have an extra ACC switch on my console is there any need you can see to use it? I was thinking it might offer some additional saftey but I would need to turn on the switch for the manual switch on the bimini to work.

4) I’m thinking of mounting mine facing forward so it folds toward the bow. My reason is that mine will mainly be up most of the time and I will be pulling into my lift with canopy and it will make loading easier as we load on the lift. Any concerns about load angles, canvas tension, or wire routing when reversed?

5) Color match of existing bimini. Mine is Monaco Blue – guessing that’s the same as Lippert “Navy Blue”? Does the silver anodized frame match Bennington’s OEM curved frame pretty close? I know it doesn't have the square grooves but mainly interested in color.

Appreciate any tips before I drill!

Steve
 
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