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Ignition switch

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DavidW

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On a normal ignition, OFF means ALL switches are off. ACC means you can turn on lights, radio, etc. without starting the motor. Why are all my switches live when the switch is in the OFF position?
 
I am glad it works this way.

When anchored in a cove, I like to take my keys out of the switch so no one can accidentally start the motor when the kids are swimming in the water, but we also like to have the music on.

Can you imagine your kids in the water by the motor, and a guest decides to turn on the radio and turns the key the wrong way?

Like I said. I like it that way.
 
There is an accessory switch on the dash that powers the radio, depth finder etc. The lights are always powered. Ign switch will work the gauges..
 
My switch does not work at all .Everything works without a key .

The only thing I need a key for is to start the motor.

Not Happy at this time .
 
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The key switch on my new one (and my old one) only controls the ignition/start. All other power is supplied by the master power toggle on the dash. All power gets shut down on the boat by the battery switch in the aft console (lockable)
 
DavidW,

You can always trip the kill switch to prevent someone from turning on the key or take the key out...you can still run your accessories.
 
DavidW said:
On a normal ignition, OFF means ALL switches are off. ACC means you can turn on lights, radio, etc. without starting the motor. Why are all my switches live when the switch is in the OFF position?
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Safety.
 
Jack M. said:
My switch does not work at all .Everything works without a key .

The only thing I need a key for is to start the motor.

Not Happy at this time .
Click to expand...
Jack, flip the helm master power switch on and see if everything still works. Sounds like a simple wiring fix. Don't let it get you down. It can and will be fixed. Probably something simple to fix under the helm.
 
SEMPERFI8387 said:
Jack, flip the helm master power switch on and see if everything still works. Sounds like a simple wiring fix. Don't let it get you down. It can and will be fixed. Probably something simple to fix under the helm.
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I do shut down the master switch .I don't under stand why it is different from one year or model to the next 
 
My 09 GLi, my '12 RCW, and my '14 RCW have all operated this same way with ignition being for just that, ignition. Could it have something to do with model? I haven't the foggiest idea why that would make a difference , just grasping at noodles(see, keeping in the boating mood!)
 
Stormie25RCL said:
DavidW,

You can always trip the kill switch to prevent someone from turning on the key or take the key out...you can still run your accessories.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately  ,my Kill switch doesn't work either .
 
Yup, you got a wiring problem. Wish I was there. I love wiring problems and would lend a hand. Or an eye in this case.
 
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My dealer is past the point of embarrassment .He is mad now .

Besides me, he has had delivery issues with others too .
 
Jack M. said:
My dealer is past the point of embarrassment .He is mad now .

Besides me, he has had delivery issues with others too .
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You know, the really sad part of all this is that it appears to be indicative of a larger problem. Particularly if he's seeing this in other deliveries. Quality control and attention to detail are the two big things that in my mind have set Bennington apart from rest of the pack. There's really no excuse for some of the troubles that you're having with your boat. And, to be honest, your dealer should have caught most of this before the boat went out his door.

That all aside, it sounds like you are making some headway with your issues and have a few work-arounds for things that absolutely need to be corrected.

The wiring around your ignition system obviously needs to be repaired asap. The only things that should come on when you turn your key towards start is your gauge package, motor systems and power steering pump (if you have one). The rest of your electrical system is always on and probably controlled through the accessory switch on your dash and an isolation/selector switch at your batteries.

The performance problem is another matter and harder to get around. I wish you were local, it would be a fun afternoon of tuning. And, really, that's kind of what this part is. The dealer hangs your motor and selects the prop for your boat based on his experience and the engine manufacturer recommendations. His big concern is to select a prop that will allow you to use all of the available RPM range of the motor without hitting the rev limiter, closer to the top the better. He also has to hang the motor at the right height on the transom to get the anti-cavitation plate level with or near the actual bottom of the boat (where the transom meets the boat bottom). You have a tri-toon so I would think that this is much easier to accomplish than with a regular pontoon.

The prop itself, while being designed to provide the correct loading to the motor, also can have all sorts of extra functionality built into it. The blade design can induce both bow lift or stern lift depending on your needs. I prefer as much bow lift as I can get.

I know, it's all clear as mud but it will come together. If your dealer sells a lot of Bennington tri-toons he should have a really good idea about the set-up. Good luck and enjoy the weekend.
 
I have complete confidence in my dealer . I was there when it was unwrapped ,so some of the issues we found together .

My biggest issue other than the wiring is what is Bennington going to propose to correct my Arch damage ?

I have asked for it to be replaced .If I don't have an answer by Wednesday the 28th, which will be 2 weeks since they were notified .

That is when the " dung will hit the rotating oscillator" 

Cavitation issues will get resolved too 
 
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