BulldogsCadillac
Just some guy
I used Wet Sounds Wet Wire for all my cables. Great stuff!!! Not cheap,but phenomenal quality. Also it is all tinned wire so that helps a lot with corrosion issues. I highly recommend it.
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SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block
The SafetyHub 150 is an ignition protected fuse block with screw termination. It is safe for use on gasoline powered boats, reduces wiring connections, and consolidates up to ten fused circuits. It can be used for Main or Branch DC power distribution
- Four 30A−200A MIDI®/AMI® fuses ideal for high-amp circuits including panel feeds, windlasses, and
stereo amplifiers- Six 1A−30A ATO®/ATC® fuses ideal for low-amp circuits including bilge pumps, electronics, and lights
- Sealed cover protects fuses from the harsh marine environment: IP66 rating—protected against powerful
water jets- Negative bus provides common location for negative collection
- Circuit identification label with write-on capability
- Fuse puller easily removes ATO®/ATC® fuses
Definitely not on the ground. It must be the same size as the positive 12VDC conductor as the current will be equal in both the positive and negative conductors.So with that in mind, one larger fuse and a single wire sounds easier, I'm just not sure if there are benefits I'm not seeing to running the two separate. And for negative, I can just tie into the negative already at the helm, right? I don't think I need to re-run that up there.
The ground wire needs to be at least the same size as your hot wire. In the "standard" configuration it is quite small, just enough for the stuff in the helm and the M6, so can't handle the current load of the added amplifier.So let me make sure I totally understand this... If I run a 4 AWG power wire from my block to the helm, I also have to run a 4 AWG negative wire? I thought for sure from reading other threads that people were ONLY pulling the power wire. Even some discussions about ground loop issues and having to move the stereo to the new power connection since everything was on the same ground. I'm apparently confused...
Yes, you need to run two conductors of equal size, one for the (+) and one for the (-) since they both will carry the same amount of current.So let me make sure I totally understand this... If I run a 4 AWG power wire from my block to the helm, I also have to run a 4 AWG negative wire? I thought for sure from reading other threads that people were ONLY pulling the power wire. Even some discussions about ground loop issues and having to move the stereo to the new power connection since everything was on the same ground. I'm apparently confused...
That's correct and according to the Bennington wiring schematic the boat harness is protected by a 30 amp fuse which is probably a #10 conductor so the negative conductor would be the same size. By running only one new (+) conductor back and tapping off the existing (-) conductor would overload the (-) conductor.The ground wire needs to be at least the same size as your hot wire. In the "standard" configuration it is quite small, just enough for the stuff in the helm and the M6, so can't handle the current load of the added amplifier.