Awesome!! What kind of camera and settings are you using?
I used a Nikon D610 for these shots, which is a full-frame (FX) DSLR with a 24MP sensor. The lens was either Nikon's 16-35mm F4, which is a nice low-light lens even though it only goes to f4, or a Rokinon 14mm f2.8 which is a "brighter" lens, but lacks auto focus. I post-process photos with either Adobe Lightroom or Adobe Bridge Camera Raw (if I'm in a hurry). I take all photos are taken in raw format (Nikon calls their raw "NEF"), and then saved as JPEG images only after the processing is complete.
No flash was used, and all photos were shot in manual mode. The ISO is set high for Milky Way images, at least at 3000 to 4000, but then the sensor on the camera is very good in low light, and is consistently buttery smooth. I don't use in-camera High ISO Noise Reduction.
The Milky Way images are shot at between 15-30 second exposure times, but you run the risk of star trails at speeds longer than 20 seconds. I don't use the vibration reduction setting on the lens, and I test shoot the pre-focus at infinity before going out for a night of shooting, then I turn the AF off and use painters tape to keep me from accidentally moving the focus ring on the lens later on. I keep the lens open as wide as possible - f4 or f2.8, depending on the lens, and I always use my heaviest tripod that is well weighted down. I use a digital wireless remote, and lock the mirror up before taking the image. I'll take 5-10 images of each shot, maybe varying the shutter speed a little with each exposure.
None of these photos are HDR, and I don't use any in-camera processing. I pretty much leave all the bells and whistles the camera offers with photo processing alone, and do all my processing in front of a large monitor powered by a MacBook Pro Retina.
In the very first image, I used a pencil beam flashlight and scanned it across the water quickly while the shutter was open, illuminating the water an eerie green color. The tripod is usually set up right at the edge of the water. I have a red lens cap that I keep over that same flashlight so I don't ruin my night vision.
For Milky Way images, I consult my star charts to see when and where it will be in the night sky during the night of a new (no) moon. You have maybe 3 days a month during the summer months to shoot the milky way with no moon out. The winter months don't produce nearly as good images as the Milky Way is in a much different location/position relative to the Earth (or vice versa).
I also take into consideration where the Milky Way will be relative to the lights of Branson or Springfield, Missouri. In that first picture of the post, the lights of Branson can be seen to the left of the image, and Springfield is brightening up the middle of the image on the horizon. Springfield is almost 60 miles from where I was that night - as the crow flies.
I have many more of these if you guys/gals are interested.
I hope this helps, and thanks for asking! Feel free to PM me if you want more info!
Guess that makes two of us. I'll never stop learning!