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Order in!

Ok the boat came in last week. Went to the dealer to see it Saturday. My dealer informed me there were some minor problems. First, there was a small dent in the back panel. No big deal, they'll change out the panel on the 20 hour oil change. Then there was a larger scratch in the side of the sink to. This too will be repaired although I'm not sure how. Finally the rough water package was not installed on the toons. It bothers me because my dealer seems to think it's no problem we just change out the toons. In my experiance once something is built it's best to leave it alone. What do you guys think? Kudos to my dealer though, they went over the boat with a fine tooth comb and pointed out any minor flaw. I just wish Benningtons QC dept. was a little more thourough. Took a little of the wind out of my sails.
 
Congrats on the new boat but sorry to hear about the issues. Was this possibly a shipping issue with the dent? Any pics?
 
Probably happened during shipping. The marina took pics, I didn't. I know they'll fix the minor dents, it's just the toons I'm concerned with. I'd rather just leave it as is.
 
Congrats! It sounds like they are willing to take care of everything so I would let them do so. I am sure you will reap the benefits of the rough water package later.
 
They just bolt on so it's pretty much screwup proof.
 
Good to hear, I wasn't sure if they had any type of sealant between the toons and the deck. I'm sure the excitement will come back when we hit the water.
 
You will be fine. Sounds like you have a top notch dealer that's looking out for you.

Congrats and , oh yeah .... PICS !!!!!
 
ledft said:
Yes after reading the blogs about the missing corner diamond stitching I talked to the factory who said the diamonds get out of shape when stiched on the corners. Went with it anyway and glad. What is your dreamboat bulldogs?
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My dream boat is on order! Haha, well I could always dream bigger, but it's the tower model. We (everyone should read that as i) wanted to go with the 25' inboard, but until I have a big garage/shop, that won't happen. It would be a wee bit long trying to back that yacht into my driveway. So what prop did you go with? I bumped up my 200SHO to the 250 this time, wife didn't want me to have anything else to "wish or want" for! Little does she know there is ALWAYS SOMETHING!! Haha

Link said:
Derricks Dreamboat will be out in the 2014, 2015 and 2016 models :D
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Sheesh Link I must have been asleep at the wheel! I totally missed this witty comment! Who knows, by the time this new one gets built it might be a 2014!! Haha

SEMPERFI8387 said:
Gee Link, I think you beat all of us to that punch line !!!!! Lol !!!!
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Well it's good to let others have a little fun once and a while!! Haha
 
Bennington suggested the merc mirage 17P but Yamaha suggested and sent a saltwater series II 15 1/2 x 17. Boats going to water test today or tomorrow. We'll see if this works. The only thing I don't like is wot before the 20 hr break in is up. Dealer says they do it all the time.
 
ledft said:
Bennington suggested the merc mirage 17P but Yamaha suggested and sent a saltwater series II 15 1/2 x 17. Boats going to water test today or tomorrow. We'll see if this works. The only thing I don't like is wot before the 20 hr break in is up. Dealer says they do it all the time.
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I hear ya. Just had the dealer test mine and I was thinking the same thing. I would think Yamaha would have something in writing stating dealer testing in the first "x" hours at WOT was acceptable. I'm going to bring it up when I go pick her up Saturday. If anything I'll at least have documentation of the conversation. ;)
 
ledft said:
Bennington suggested the merc mirage 17P but Yamaha suggested and sent a saltwater series II 15 1/2 x 17. Boats going to water test today or tomorrow. We'll see if this works. The only thing I don't like is wot before the 20 hr break in is up. Dealer says they do it all the time.
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If you read the break in instructions TB posted the other day, you can run at wot, not in the first and I believe second hour,



But after that for short periods of time
 
I want clarification and verification that the dealer did the following...

1. First hour – run the motor at varying speeds up to 2000 rpm (approximately half throttle if there is no tachometer).

2. Second hour – accelerate hard enough to put the boat on plane (do not use full throttle) then back off of the throttle but keep the boat on plane.

I'm fearful they did not, but I could be pleasantly surprised. Maybe they have an automated tester that they hook up and runs this cycle for 2 hours. I work in a manufacturing environment, if I had specifications like this, I'd have something automated to accomplish the 1st 2 hours, that's two hours that something could be done automatically, prior to being hung on the boat. Then you could do the testing within specifications in 5 min increments.
 
Oh don't get me wrong, I highly doubt that's what was done, and you wouldn't be able to automate something to know when your boat is on plane and back it off. Well you could, but it'd be a billion dollars. I hate the idea that the motor wasn't broken in properly, especially since today's computers I'm sure can hold that info for a warranty issue. That being said, have it noted on your bill of sale how many hours, exactly, are on the boat when you pick it up. That way anything can be put back on the dealer for that time frame. Although, I could see me looking for a job in retirement, break in motors for dealers. They pay you to cruise around on new boats for a couple hours, sounds like a good gig for Carl!! Haha
 
Only problem would be forcing Carl to move up north from NC !!!!
 
IMO It would not take that much, they want the piston walls to seat, it's simply adjusting the rpm's. Tub of water, or even the garden hose with suction cps, a stand, an actuator to move the throttle, and a Plc to tell everything what to do. Less than $5 k in parts and that's being conservative. To get onto plane takes "x" rpm. If you want to add a "load" you just create friction on the shaft witha bearing so it spins freely. Voila a test stand that runs for 2 hrs then you hang it on the Benny.
 
Apologies for a cross post from veradoclub.com but I thought this layman's explanation was really valuable, at least for the Verado owner. It may be different for the SHO's due to no sleeves in the block. In the Verado they want to go through full heat and cool cycles to break down the peaks and valleys. For the Verado they actually WANT you to run it WOT for 1 minute in every 10 minutes, then cool down, vary rpm, etc.

"as I read this board everyday I see more and more misconceptions on what break in is, and does. A lot of people are assuming if the motor isnt broken in the right way there will be nothing but issues down the road with pencil coils, fuel pumps, spark plugs and so on and so fourth. THIS IS NOT TRUE. Break in has to do with the block only, nothing electrical!!!! I'm going to try to make this as painless as I can for myself and explain what goes on during break in. We first have to start with the motor being cast. Once the block is cast all the mating surfaces have to be machined flat so they can accept their counterparts. During the machining, the cylinders are bored, honed and cross hatched. Cross hatching looks like the oil dipstick cross hatches but only very, very fine. When the cross hatches are made they leave very fine peaks and valleys in the cylinder walls. Now with that being said...... on a new motor that has not been run yet, the "peaks and valleys" need to be worn away. When metal gets hot, it expands and when it cools it contracts. When the piston moves up and down, the cylinder wears away at those peaks and valleys. We all know that to break in a verado we have to run at WOT for one minute every ten minutes and also vary the rpm every few minutes. What this does is it heats up and cools down the cylinder walls and also helps seat the bearings. If we didnt break in the motor this way, there is a chance that the peaks and valleys would'nt be worn away but instead they would "bend over" and cause glazing. If a cylinder glazes, it has no place for the oil to sit in and would cause a break down in the cylinder to piston connection. So, like I said in the begining, "break in" has ZERO to do with eletrical break downs. I've seen parts break in 10 minutes with no reason for it breaking. I hope this helps everyones myths about break in and didnt confuse anyone..
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[edit: thanks Jeff - so members, the summation is to vary the rpms while breaking in so you have many temperatur changes in the block, and do the WOT thing like Jeff explains]"
 
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SEMPERFI8387 said:
Only problem would be forcing Carl to move up north from NC !!!!
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No way in hell i'd move back up north! B) I did drive boats for TB in 2008 when Bennington had there dealer in-water boat show on Lake Norman. I wanted to trade our boat for a 2275 rli they had with ESP real bad. My wife put a stop to that. And it was Derricks favorite color. :D
 
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TomS - That break in sounds the same as my non-verado 4-stroke. I recall WOT came pretty early in the break in period. I'd have to look in the manual to be sure, but it sure sounds the same.
 
cwag911 said:
No way in hell i'd move back up north! B) I did drive boats for TB in 2008 when Bennington had there dealer in-water boat show on Lake Norman. I wanted to trade our boat for a 2275 rli they had with ESP real bad. My wife put a stop to that. And it was Derricks favorite color. :D
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I knew you'd jump on that comment !! If it were not for the economy back in 91, there's no way in **** I'd have moved back from Arizona !!

I can remember coming home in December, changing clothes and jumping into the heated pool. Now don't get me wrong, it got cold at night, but who cares, I was sleeping !!! :D But during "most" days it was 60 or above !! Went to work in sweatshirt, came home in t-shirt ..... Oh how I miss that !!!

Our goal is Myrtle Beach or further south in 10 years or less !!! :wub: Just gotta pay house off so we can afford our "retirement" home (or trailer, or camper, or houseboat :blink: )
 
Rockie69 said:
IMO It would not take that much, they want the piston walls to seat, it's simply adjusting the rpm's. Tub of water, or even the garden hose with suction cps, a stand, an actuator to move the throttle, and a Plc to tell everything what to do. Less than $5 k in parts and that's being conservative. To get onto plane takes "x" rpm. If you want to add a "load" you just create friction on the shaft witha bearing so it spins freely. Voila a test stand that runs for 2 hrs then you hang it on the Benny.
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Sounds wonderful in theory, except you can't run your motor at any kind of high rpms with muffs on, it's in the manual, everyone's throttle is different, so you'd need to hook a computer to it to get actual rpms of each different style of motor, you'd need to somehow adjust the load from the 'bearing' since it says you need to get on plane, then back it off just enough to stay on plane. Don't get me wrong, it would be great, but you could probably get a more exact break in done with a person out driving a boat, less chance of something going wrong too. It sure would suckered if the rpm reading diagnostic wire fell off while it was on the contraption so it put it to wot, and if your going to have someone sitting there watching it to make sure it goes ok, you might as well throw them in the lake and do it that way. Although I will admit my billion dollar estimate might have been high. Haha
 
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