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Ready to make the switch!!!!

I really appreciate all the input you guys share on this site, not only on this thred but all around. It has definitely come in handy in my research and look forward to getting behind the helm of one of these machines and try it out for myself. We'll see what info comes out this weekend after all the dealers head to Indiana and check out the new 2013 lineup. Thanks again.
 
PDX Hosedragger said:
I went with the 200 SHO with the hopes that someone will crack the code to milk the extra power out of it. It's the same exact displacement as the 250, just tuned and ported differently. Someday... someone smarter than me will hack it.
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Already been done.
 
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I would like to see a dyno readout on a 200 hp SHO versus Yamaha's regular 200 hp. A pontoon boat especially needs a wide, flat torque curve.

I've had dealers and a Yamaha rep tell me they like the regular Yammie engine on a pontoon. It sounds as if the SHO engines may have their horsepower and torque come in at higher rpm's, as they're predominantly built for bass boats.

But the SHO's appear to be magnificent pieces of engineering--given the low weight of the engines.
 
The regular 200 is only 3.3 litre versus the SHO v-max which is 4.2 litre. This will make a big difference in torque alone.
 
Here are the woulda shoulda coulda list that I have with my boat.

-Full vinyl floor with snap in carpet. (it would be great for those booze cruises where you know things will get spilled, or if you're going to be playing on a sandy beach somewhere)

-Center tube fuel tank. I trailer my boat, so it's not a big deal getting fuel, but it would be nice to get the storage under the seat back, along with the additional range.

-250 SHO. We didn't buy these boats to save money. I should have but the bullet and bought the bad mamajama and sucked up the premium fuel costs.

-Sealed strakes. I think they add a fair amount of structural rigidity to the tube. I had an issue with the 2" weld on my current strakes.

I currently have:

2275 GCW

200HP SHO

ESP

Wave shield

Center floor storage

Strakes

52" Pylon

Raised helm

R Captains chair

Bimini lighting

Bow seat

Ottoman

Stainless lights

GPS Speedo

Fish finder

M6 Stereo
 
According to TB a sealed strake has the back end of the strake capped off. I thought it meant full length welded. I was thinking that if fully welded it might cut down on water drag. Has anybody tested that theory?
 
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if i'm not mistaken, don't they only recommend the sealed straked when your going to be in salt water?

PDX - i have a guy i know that has the vinyl floor but most dealers don't order it around here. it's not a big request i guess but it dows sound like a nice option but the $1,00 price tag with it? my dealer did suggest the bigger fuel tank. otherwise your boat is about what i am loking at getting, unfortanatly i dont think i will upgrade to the 250. we'll see what the costs come back at.

Thanks for the advise!!!
 
Nap22 said:
if i'm not mistaken, don't they only recommend the sealed straked when your going to be in salt water?

PDX - i have a guy i know that has the vinyl floor but most dealers don't order it around here. it's not a big request i guess but it dows sound like a nice option but the $1,00 price tag with it? my dealer did suggest the bigger fuel tank. otherwise your boat is about what i am loking at getting, unfortanatly i dont think i will upgrade to the 250. we'll see what the costs come back at.

Thanks for the advise!!!
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I had heard that. Maybe it keeps things from crawling in and living in the strake. It does not make it watertight. Would love to know the reason for it
 
I assumed it was to avoid having any salt water getting trapped inside there and causing any added corrosion of the metal.
 
I guess I assumed that the additional cost for the sealed was just electrode and labor. It makes no sense to add an end cap but not seal it completely. If you were just sitting there and it wasn't sealed, water would seep into the strake cavity, and when you took off you would be hauling around the weight of the water until it slowly drained out. I was once a finish welder in a past life and have a tig inverter... I'm really considering doing it myself when the warranty is up.
 
Nap22 said:
I assumed it was to avoid having any salt water getting trapped inside there and causing any added corrosion of the metal.
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Since the strake is not full length welded the cap won't keep anything dry. What is the reason for the end cap? Critter control?
 
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