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Stereo Upgrade - Amp & Sub: SubWoofer Design & Installation

Makes sense. I hadn't considered an Aux in when I saw that connection. Yep, you should be able to run everything from the rear out.

I'm not an expert on the appropriate wire gauge to run, so I'll defer to anyone else with more expertise in that area. This is a source that I used to give me an idea of what I'd need for wire:

ampedupcaraudio.com

Essential Wire Gauge Chart: Understanding AWG and Ampacity Basics

Learn the basics of AWG and ampacity with our essential wire gauge chart. Understand wire sizes for safe and efficient electrical projects. Read more!
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I went 1/0 with mine because I knew I was going to run at least 2 decent sized amps, plus it's a lengthy rum from the battery to the amps as well as the fact that you need to pull the ground that entire distance unlike grounding to the frame in a car. I also fused both of my amps at the distribution block with a lower amperage fuse than recommended, in addition to putting a resettable breaker near that battery that's at a lower amperage than what the wire should be able to handle. Probably overkill, but I'd rather trip any of those safeties than have something melt.
 
LD50 said:
After a lot of back and forth, I made up my mind and ordered the final pieces to upgrade my stereo. I ended up going with non-marine amplifiers and a Kicker 12" L7T in a truck box. I had already pulled the power wires at the end of last season and ended up pulling new wires to the forward facing swingback speakers that ended up being wired in parallel to the front helm speakers. I also played with location of the sub and ended up settling on placing it in the rear swingback compartement, where it mostly tucks away in space that wouldn't be very useful anyway. Besides, that rear storage in the swingback is a PITA due to the weight of the lid. I'm storing mostly items that don't get used frequently in there. I had originally planned to put the sub in the helm; however, there's too much wiring and other components in there. My first test run made it evident that the sub would need to move as the helm sounds like the trunk of an '85 Cutlass when you start to push it.

For a sub amp, I went with Rockfords R2-1200x1. The biggest decision I had to make was the amp for the interior speakers. I stumbled across Audio Control and found the best match that I've seen yet so I decided to go for it. I installed their D 6.1200, which runs 6 channels at 125W @ 4 ohms. It also has an integrated DSP. The DSP is a little clunky as it doesn't have bluetooth or an app to tune it. You need to use a USB cord and laptop, but IMO it was worth the effort. Once I set all the crossovers and gains and ran the tuning setup for the 30 band EQ, it made a significant difference in sound quality on the Rockford M1 6.5 factory speakers. Overall, I'm very happy with the new setup. I'm going to give it a bit and see if I want to start upgrading the interior speakers to the Rockford M2's.

If anyone is interested in purchasing the factory Rockford sub that Bennington uses, message me. I was thinking I'd run it in addition to the the Kicker to fill in some mid base, but I've decided against it. I'd rather not have the additional power draw and tuning the 6.5's with the DSP helped take some of the harshness out of them and added a lot to the mid range.

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LD, how did you mount the boards under the helm that the amps are mounted to? I’m not with the boat till next week otherwise I could look at my own a little closer.
Do your screws/bolts go through to the outside of the helm? How’d you cross that bridge?? TIA.
 
There's an area in the front and rear of the helm where you can see that material is significantly thicker. It looks like they fiberglassed over a piece of plywood or other similar material to reinforce those areas. The area in the front is where they mount the factory stereo to. I ordered these sheets of ABS to use as the mounting boards:


I would have preferred something a little thicker, but these worked just fine and were the best deal I could find in the size I needed. I cut the pieces of ABS to be larger than the reinforced are of the helm to given me more room to mount the new amps. I got some half inch stainless screws, pre-drilled holes in the ABS and used a countersink bit so they would screw in flush and just ran them into those thicker areas of the helm. The screws they used to mount the factory stereo were signficantly larger than the ones I used. The screws do no go through the helm and I intentionally went with the shortest screw and could and used more of them to avoid causing cracks in the gel on the exterior of the helm down the road. I learned that lesson from previous boats.
 
22dmetz said:
LD, how did you mount the boards under the helm that the amps are mounted to? I’m not with the boat till next week otherwise I could look at my own a little closer.
Do your screws/bolts go through to the outside of the helm? How’d you cross that bridge?? TIA.
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I ended up marking the holes out. Taking the seat back off, drilling holes. Then installed long 4" stainless bolts that faced into the storage compartment. then stacked my amps.
 
Seadoorxpguy said:
its a slippery slope. Thats how I ended up with two
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So i am planning on adding my second subwoofer. I have a few questions. Hoping for some answers or talk me out of it...

So i am using the Kicker 800.5 amplier to drive a Kicker 10 tube 2ohms in the back of the boat. That pushed 400w to that subwoofer

so now I want to add a second amplifier and subwoofer to the front of the boat. I was thinking about using the Kicker 800.1.. to drive the factory subwoofer. The amp has alot more power than I need, but i was told I can dial it back.. i was leaning towards that amp because I need the rca input and output. I plan on daisy chaining the 2 ampliers from the subwoofer output on the Kicker head unit.

Also, I assume i can just wire right into the fuse block on the boat. I have a safetyhub 150. It appears to have a empty slot.

So i have a R23.. I was advised to run 4 gauge power wire. How many feet do I need? Will 20ft be enough or should I go with 25ft? I am not looking forward to running that power wire from the back to the Helm..


And other issues or thoughts on my plan with the 2 subwoofer? If the factory sub dont work out very well, then I will buy another Kicker 10" 2ohm tube sub for the front.
 
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You dont need a amp with rca in and out. You can run a rca splitter like I did. For a amp that size Id probably run a thicker gauge and if youre mounting it under the helm id go 25ft. Easier to cut it shorter than pull it though and be a few feet short
 
Seadoorxpguy said:
You dont need a amp with rca in and out. You can run a rca splitter like I did. For a amp that size Id probably run a thicker gauge and if youre mounting it under the helm id go 25ft. Easier to cut it shorter than pull it though and be a few feet short
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So a rca splitter on the sub output from the headunit.. you sure that doesn't degrade the signal?. I did a quick Google search and I guess a splitter is fine. So now to look at different amps... one that can drive 400w @ 2 ohms
 
Crutchfield recomended a amp for me... MBQuart NA4. 400.1. Drives a sub at 400w @ 2ohms. I will use the factory sub and see how that sounds.. otherwise I will think about getting anotger Kicker 10" 2ohm and put it under the front seat compartment. I think it will fit but need to measure it up
 
Seadoorxpguy said:
2 of these amps
2 of these subs
3 pairs of these speakers
As far as wiring I ran two 4 gauge feeds from the battery to under my helm to power my two amps. I didn't waste money with wiring kits. I pieced everything together myself and used the factory fuse block that was in my boat to power both amps with appropriate sized fuses
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I just rece8ved my 6.gauge wire to run my amp and I am in awe on the size of it.. i couldn't imagine running 2 - 4 gauge wires
 
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Where is you're battery compared to where the amp is? 6 gauge looks to be too small if your running 20 ft
 
Seadoorxpguy said:
Where is you're battery compared to where the amp is? 6 gauge looks to be too small if your running 20 ft
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I have a r23 swingback.. battery compartment is in the back and needs to be ran to the helm. I actually bought 30ft, but plan on cutting it down a bit. Maybe 4 or 5 feet off.. The specs I saw seemed to be ok at 6 gauge. I am using it to power a 400w amp. The amp is a mb quart na4 400.1. The manual recommends indicates its harness is 10 gauge at 30amps.. and to use 8 gauge for runs over 20 ft. So i figured 6 gauge at 25 ft I should be fine.. the existing factory kicker 800w amp looks like 8 gauge probably at 16-20ft. Works fine.
 

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Seadoorxpguy said:
I powered mine off that same fuse block. Just ordered the right fuse for the new amp
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Yes I will to.. I will add a 30a fuse for the new amp.. i guess I showed that Pic because the factory amp wire looks like 8 or 10 gauge. Definitely not 4
 

Wire Gauge Selection (OFC vs. CCA)​

At a 20-foot distance, voltage drop becomes a significant factor.
  • 4 AWG OFC (Recommended):Pure copper handles the current easily over 20 feet, keeping voltage drop well under the critical 0.5V threshold. This ensures your amplifier receives maximum voltage to prevent clipping and overheating.
    • If (when) you jump to an 800w -1,000 wamp - a 1\0 AWG is recommended. At 25 feet, running a 1,000w suggests a 2\0 is the right size, otherwise same as a 20 foot.
    • Average air temp is also a factor, our lake it is typically 105 to 110 out - these wire sizes start to become maxed out, but still "acceptable". It is recommended that wire with BC-5W2 Marine Specification or SAE J1127 (Type SGT or SGX) ratings can ensure maximum performance (especially in cases where wires are run in the engine compartment - usually not an issue for us).
  • Avoid CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum): Aluminum has higher resistance than copper. If you use CCA, you must step up to a 2 AWG or 0 AWG wire to match the conductivity of a 4 AWG copper wire. Stick to 100% OFC for the best performance and safety.
  • Fuse Rating: Install a 50A or 60A inline fuse on the main power wire. Place this fuse within 18 inches of the battery to protect the vehicle in the event of a short circuit (so the fuse hub).
  • Ground Wire: The ground (negative return) wire must be the exact same gauge (4 AWG OFC) as the power wire. For an amp, it is ideal to run a separate wire and not rely on common grounds.
 
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Thanks, I did run OFC wire.. Just 6 gauge... probably at 22ft at the end of the day.. I got everything connected.. seems fine for the 400watt amp i have.. keeping fingers crossed. There are 2 30amp fuses. One at the battery and I left the fuse at the amp.. Doubt I would ever go with a bigger amp or more amps. I used the mb quart 400w to power the factory sub.. it certainly doent hit like the kicker 10" tube. So maybe one day ill get another one to replace the factory..

So here is a question for you guys. Between my 2 amps there is about 1200watts.. how long can I expect to run on battery power before the battery dies? Do you guys keep the engine running?

Mike
 
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How is the boat wired? House off one battery motor off the other? A acr is a charging relay. i installed a blue seas one in my boat. Keeps the motor battery seperate so the boat will always start then it charges the house battery after the starter battery is fully charged
 
Seadoorxpguy said:
How is the boat wired? House off one battery motor off the other? A acr is a charging relay. i installed a blue seas one in my boat. Keeps the motor battery seperate so the boat will always start then it charges the house battery after the starter battery is fully charged
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I choose what battery the boat is running on
 

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