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Adding Speakers to an SSRXP

Discussion in 'Owners Chat: Options and Upgrades' started by Jim Rampello, Jul 2, 2018.

  1. Jim Rampello

    Jim Rampello Well-Known Member

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    I have a 2018 SSRXP and have noticed the lack of speakers in the rear of the boat. I have the Kicker KMC2 stereo. I don't need to blast the sound for the entire lake to hear just be able to hear the music at lower levels in the back of the boat.

    Here is the problem, I know nothing about how to do this. Will this unit even drive 6 speakers? Would I need an amp? Tons of other questions too long to list.

    Any simple help is greatly appreciated!!

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. H2GO

    H2GO Well-Known Member

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    From a previous post answering a similar question. You might consider an inexpensive amp to drive additional speakers:

    If you add two more speakers in parallel with the existing ones you will be placing a 2 ohm load on each channel, assuming all speakers are 4 ohm ( industry standard). Most likely you will cause the radio's amplifier to go into thermal shutdown at high levels as you would double the heat inside the radio. Of course you could switch to all 8 ohm speakers and connect as you say but an inexpensive 2 channel amp to drive the extra speakers would be a cheaper way to go. Also switching to 8 ohm speakers will cut your output level in half at each speaker theoretically and alllow the parallel wiring connection. A third option would be to connect two speakers on each channel in series which would allow you to use 4 ohm speakers and making the load on the radio 8 ohms. Again half output power meaning it won't be as loud. This configuration can cause some funky phasing issues but probably not noticeable on a boat. Any radio that is running off of 12v is only capable of about 20 Watts RMS per channel. You hear so many gimmicks of how power is rated, my favorite is peak power which is nearly useless so be careful when you shop for speakers or an amp. The large expensive amps have internal D.C. To D.C. Power supplies to step up the voltage and those are capable of very high power levels but the speakers should be capable of handling it. Look for products that are rated in RMS power so you know what your getting and can do direct comparisons. There is a lot more to this like distortion and efficiency so let me know if you need help picking anything out or a wiring diagram.
     
  3. Michiman

    Michiman Well-Known Member

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    I'm running six speakers on a KM10 radio (which is how the factory set it up) so I think you should be fine. That said, if you can install an amp, that would be preferable IMO.
     
  4. Jim Rampello

    Jim Rampello Well-Known Member

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    Can you attach a wiring diagram? Would I run all six (6) speakers off of new amp (4 ex., 2 new)? Does the existing wiring need to be modified? I haven't looked under there yet!!! Do you have a recommendation for an amp as I am clueless!!!!

    I did see this post before but I don't do electrical stuff very well. All of this ohm, v, watts and DC talk is beyond my comprehension. I need a simple splanation!!!! Pictures help too!!!!
     
    Vikingstaff likes this.
  5. H2GO

    H2GO Well-Known Member

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    Here is a Youtube video that talks about what you are want to do to your boat.
    https://www.rocktheboatmarinestereo.com/c/Video-Wiring-Speakers-To-Your-Marine-Amplifier.html

    You would want to ensure the amp you purchase will drive a 2 ohm load which is what you would have when connecting standard marine speakers in parallel. You could get by with a 4 channel amp by doing this. You can buy a 6 channel amp but they are expensive.

    Here is a basic diagram showing 2 sets of speakers wired in parallel using 2 channels on the amp. The remaining 2 channels drive a single speaker each. Hope this helps.

    upload_2018-7-2_15-53-38.png
     
  6. DanielG

    DanielG Well-Known Member

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    Jim, I too am a new owner of a 22SSRX (no P :(, no ext rear deck :(). I have tons of these same questions regarding stereo stuff. I know nothing about wiring a stereo although I am a musician and love my music. I had the same thought that it was a little strange not to have any speakers in the rear section of the boat. I have the KMC2 head also but with the stock Q-Marine QM-650 speakers. I may add those rear speakers later but for now the stock speakers actually don't sound too bad and kick pretty good once you get the volume up over 25. However, I'm missing bottom end. My first task is to find and install a Sub that will add to the sound and, as I've been told, will allow the speakers to work better and, with the bass moving off to the Sub, the speakers should be clearer and sound better. As for the KMC2 head, the only thing I don't really like about it is the volume is push and hold button type and not knob based. Turning up and down the volume you have to hold the button and it takes a few seconds to adjust where you want it. Other than that it's the same output as the upgraded KMC10. For the Sub, I'm looking for a powered, enclosed subwoofer that will fit nicely under the rear seat close to the batteries or the fold-up seat-back behind the captains chair. I'm not quite ready to start cutting holes to mount a subwoofer in the seat wells and I'm told that Subs are omnidirectional so the sound should travel through items just as well. If you run across a Sub that fits, I'd be interested in knowing the model.
    I'd also be interested to know what you decide to do and any tips you might discover. Happy Boating!!!
     
    Major K likes this.
  7. DanielG

    DanielG Well-Known Member

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    Jim,
    Just an update on my 22 SSRX Sub/Speaker install. I wound up putting in an enclosed Rockford Fosgate 10" Punch Sub (P300-10 $180) in the reclining section of the seat behind the Captain's chair. Wiring was simple. I also went ahead and swapped out the stock speakers for the Kicker 6.5" speakers and man let me tell you the sound is awesome! You can check out some of exactly how I did the Sub on the forum "Installed Power Sub Today". Good luck.
     
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  8. offroadr

    offroadr Member

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    Daniel, how did you run your wires to the rear? I would also like to add some rear speakers and a sub. I only have the 4 speakers in the boat with none in the rear
     
  9. DanielG

    DanielG Well-Known Member

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    I also only have the 4 speakers with none in the rear.
    I only ran two wires. (1 set RCA L&R) from the head unit to the Sub in the back and 1 Sub remote volume wire from the Sub back up to the helm to control the Sub volume.

    Materials:
    Subwoofer: RockFord Fosgate P300-10 (10" amplified sub).
    Wiring Kit: BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit from Amazon for $16-18. The kit has a 20' set of RCA cables and everything you need for power. The only thing I ordered extra was some of that cheap loom tubing to encase the wires in to keep things neat and protect them from getting nicked. I used the fuse as well that is provided in the kit.
    Wire Fish: Flex-Cable Pick-Up Tool 4-Finger Claw End Retriever Snake from Amazon for $5. VERY HELPFUL.
    Wire Vent: Stainless Steel Clamshell Vent ($4).
    Caulk: Waterproof caulk ($4).
    Strap: 6-8' lashing strap
    Lashing Holders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B8DX88T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Running Wires:
    First having someone help you to fish the wires is helpful. In the helm there is a hole where all the factory cables run to the back of the boat. I used my Flexible Cable Pick-Up Tool with 4-Finger Claw for getting the wires up inside the boat. Inside of the helm, I stuck the flexible claw by itself down to the hole until my buddy could see it. Then I pressed the end to open the claw and he stuck the cable in the claw. Then I gently pulled it back up through the hole and connected it to the Rear R&L RCA Outputs. (5-10mins). We did the same thing for the Sub remote volume wire.
    Then I went to the rear of the boat underneath the seat near the batteries and drilled a 1/2" hole with a drill bit. Take caution to make you are clear of everything underneath before drilling. My buddy acted as my spotter outside the boat looking up under to help me gauge if I was clear to drill the hole. The I used the claw to fish that end up through the hole as well as the Sub remote volume wire. I wrapped both sets of wires in a loom tubing to protect them and then zip tied that loom tube to another set of factory wires that ran down the side of the boat that were secured to the plywood decking. If you don't have that you can buy some cheap cable clamps to screw to the underside of the decking. After I had everything connected and made sure it functioned correctly, I secured the rear wires coming through the hole to the floor with a small wire clamp and put the stainless steel wire vent to cover the hole. I also put the waterproof caulking in the hole to prevent water leaking in.

    Connection:
    On my KMC2 head unit there are two sets of outputs - 1 front L&R and 1 rear L&R. They are super easy to spot. Red and White. I used the Rear L&R for the Sub. Then I ran the Positive and Ground from the Sub direct to the battery. I was able to fish the Sub remote volume wire up through the helm to the dash and used some Gorilla tape to secure it sideways (out of the way) to one of the vertical areas on the dash.

    The only other thing I did was zip-tied all the wires going to the Sub (remote volume, RCA, Power, Ground, etc...) into a make-shift harness and secured it to the inside wall of the seat to keep tension off the wires going into the Sub. I put my Sub in the vertical lounger portion of that seat on it's side so my connections were essentially on top of the Sub. I then took a lashing strap and 2 little screw down lashing strap holders and lashed down the Sub so it didn't move when boating.

    It all worked out great for me. Hope this helps you and anyone else. I'm sure it can be done better, for sure.
     
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  10. cwag911

    cwag911 Moderator

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    I am assuming you don't have underskinning.
     
  11. Havasu

    Havasu Well-Known Member

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    I had no problem running wires to my extra sub between the underskin and the floor from the helm to the port side rear seating area. Quite easy actually.
     
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  12. DanielG

    DanielG Well-Known Member

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    I do have under-skinning. I ran the loom tubing (wires) on the outer edge.
     
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  13. offroadr

    offroadr Member

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    great instructions and I can't wait to upgrade
     
    Jim Rampello likes this.
  14. offroadr

    offroadr Member

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    I googled 'wire vent' and I don't think what I found is what you mentioned. Can you post a link?
     
  15. Major K

    Major K Member

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    Very helpful, this will be fall or next spring project after the add a battery install.

    Thank you.
     
  16. offroadr

    offroadr Member

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    Looking to add 2 rear speakers in the rear seats. Where did you guys route your wires to the console? My boat has the underskin
     
  17. Spoiledrotten

    Spoiledrotten Well-Known Member

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    Mine has the underskinning, too. I remove the screws that hold the corner plate under the stern. I use a 1/2” pvc, and tape the end of the wire to the pvc. Then I shove it through the m brackets to the point I want to run side to side. Makes easy work of running auxiliary supplies.
     
  18. offroadr

    offroadr Member

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    Thats across the stern? How did you get the wires to the console?
     
  19. Spoiledrotten

    Spoiledrotten Well-Known Member

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    I simply fished them over the skinning. I have about 4” between the skinning and the deckboard.
     
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