Tooncrazy
Well-Known Member
I have a 2015 2275 GCW and want to add a powered subwoofer to my stereo system. Has anyone here done this with their 2275 GCW? Where did you mount it? Were you happy with the results?
Thank you.
Thank you.
Bazooka 8" or 10" Self Amped Sub Woofer On 2275 GCW - Has Anyone Here Done It?
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Toon'r
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Just wait awhile and Derrick will give you the scoop and poop
Did it on the 2375 RCW, I know it is not the same helm, but I had mine mounted under the helm in the storage.
As far as the results, I am working overseas so I have not heard it, but my installer and my wife said it is unbelievable, it sounds great. I have the 10" 10250D.
As far as the results, I am working overseas so I have not heard it, but my installer and my wife said it is unbelievable, it sounds great. I have the 10" 10250D.
kaydano
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How is that mounted? Did you screw the plastic clips to the floor and use the straps that go around the tube?
Yes. I will try and have my wife get pics. I also bought some 3m hook and loop velcro just in case I wanted to use that instead. My wife said he used the straps.
kaydano
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I'd like to do the same, but worried about my S helm door rattling like Nick's rattlesnake...
The other choice is under a seat, if it would fit.
The other choice is under a seat, if it would fit.
Yes, I am going to have to see how this works out
Interested to hear how it works out. I've thought about doing the same but my biggest hesitation is running new wire from the battery to the helm with the wave shield and everything in the way. What gauge wire and how many do you need for a little powered thing like that bazooka tube?
He used 8 gauge wire. You need one power and one ground. The ground should be a short run and connect close to the sub/amp. This is right from the installation instructions from Bazooka. The unit comes with a wiring harness for the other connections, but I did not do it so not sure how much that entails. These instructions say to use 12 gauge, but I was told to go bigger.
http://www.bazooka.com/tech/wiring-diagrams/BTAxx250D
BulldogsCadillac
Just some guy
Personally, I am not a huge fan of bazooka tubes. That being said, I also know that in some situations they can work perfectly. Maybe partly it just reminds me too much of the late 80's to early 90's when everyone had one!! they are priced well, but I always wonder what they skimp on to get it that low. Only thing I can think of is the amp. Although many are only 100-150w. As far as power cable, well it all depends on what all your doing. If you have thoughts of possibly adding amps or new sound equipment at a later date, well then bigger is better. Also where do you think you may mount added amps? If helm is the answer, then you might as well run big power and ground to the helm now and be done with it. Instead of running 8 gauge now, only to have to redo it at a later date. You should make sure you have a fuse, I believe it's within 8-12" of the battery. Each layout will lend itself to different configurations. Center walk thru you have the option of the helm, or under a lounger. SL, GL, RL, well maybe you just make a mount board right under the sundeck, short run for battery cable, little more work for speaker wire. One way or another, you will have to run a cable to the helm. Either speaker wire, RCA cables for the pre outs, or power and ground for distribution blocks. Personally, I go for power and ground since you are more likely to have signal issues when having a long run of wire carrying the actual sound(RCA or speaker) all the way from the helm to the back. Unless you buy very high end RCA/wire that are well shielded. But this is all in theory of all the possible negative variables. In real world application, it may work perfectly fine. And that's just my opinion. I'm not a professional audiophile, just a guy who likes a good boom boom once and awhile.
they are priced well, but I always wonder what they skimp on to get it that low. Only thing I can think of is the amp. Although many are only 100-150w. As far as power cable, well it all depends on what all your doing. If you have thoughts of possibly adding amps or new sound equipment at a later date, well then bigger is better. Also where do you think you may mount added amps? If helm is the answer, then you might as well run big power and ground to the helm now and be done with it. Instead of running 8 gauge now, only to have to redo it at a later date. You should make sure you have a fuse, I believe it's within 8-12" of the battery. Each layout will lend itself to different configurations. Center walk thru you have the option of the helm, or under a lounger. SL, GL, RL, well maybe you just make a mount board right under the sundeck, short run for battery cable, little more work for speaker wire. One way or another, you will have to run a cable to the helm. Either speaker wire, RCA cables for the pre outs, or power and ground for distribution blocks. Personally, I go for power and ground since you are more likely to have signal issues when having a long run of wire carrying the actual sound(RCA or speaker) all the way from the helm to the back. Unless you buy very high end RCA/wire that are well shielded. But this is all in theory of all the possible negative variables. In real world application, it may work perfectly fine. And that's just my opinion. I'm not a professional audiophile, just a guy who likes a good boom boom once and awhile. Yes, ground does not go to battery, just ground block under helm. If you run to battery you can have problems such as inducing noise into your system.
BulldogsCadillac
Just some guy
I would run ground back to battery.
Not sure, but I am not an electrician. Bazooka specifically says not to do it. If you go to the website like 12volt dot com or something like that they tell you not to do it either.
BulldogsCadillac
Just some guy
That is also all based on automotive application, not marine. Maybe it won't matter, but every major stereo I've seen installed on a boat that I've seen have all been back to battery. But I also am not an electrician.
TomS
Well-Known Member
I would always run it back to the battery. The path to ground should have at least as much wire gauge as the positive connection has. The other grounds under the helm would likely be lower gauge for some connections. From a noise standpoint, the answer is "it depends". You're balancing between the substantial noise benefits of a true "star ground" with preferably short connections, or a longer line length which can act like an antenna. In general I'd prefer +/- same gauge, same length direct to a battery.
I'm not an electrician either, but Purdue was foolish enough to confer a EE on me many moons ago :lol:
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You guys are probably correct, just if I don't know something I refer to the directions. I am working away and tried to convince the guy installing my stuff to run ground to the battery. He absolutely would not do it, said he has seen too many noise induced issues with it. One boating site I was on said don't do it because you are running it near the boats power and control wiring.
Anyway, so far they tell me it is working great and sounds great. If I have issues in the future I will just run one myself.
Scott
Anyway, so far they tell me it is working great and sounds great. If I have issues in the future I will just run one myself.
Scott
BulldogsCadillac
Just some guy
Well that's good to hear! Haha, get it, hear! Anyways, like I said, it may be perfectly fine, Tom brought up a very valid point about gauge of wire being a factor. I guess if you aren't pulling obscene amounts of juice, you can get away with it your way. I just remember years ago when remote car starters first came out and if you added one aftermarket, it seemed like no matter what you went in to the dealership to have repaired, they tried to blame it on the car starter installation! I had a turn signal fuse that kept blowing and they kept blaming the car starter! Charged me to "diagnose" it, it still kept on happening, so finally I pulled the turn signal out and here it was a pinched wire that the insulation had worn through and if it was on and I hit a bump it would contact some metal and poof! Now it must have happened when I put on my fancy new Drift style aftermarket bumper with that nifty wire mesh in all the cut outs, but it had NOTHING to do with my remote starter, so I went back and got my money back for their "diagnosis"! Haha, point of all this is, I try to never tie into factory items unless I have to. That way if something completely unrelated goes wrong, they can't try to blame something I did.
Willb
Well-Known Member
Did you buy a marine based bazooka? Marine instructions never call for a chassis based or block based ground.
Your taking a huge risk on blowing engine circuits on the marine engines by not using proper grounds and power runs to the battery on items that draw above 15 amps
There are two huge audiophiles that have done their homework and bulldogs one of them.
Your taking a huge risk on blowing engine circuits on the marine engines by not using proper grounds and power runs to the battery on items that draw above 15 amps
There are two huge audiophiles that have done their homework and bulldogs one of them.
I just looked it up, the Marine unit instructions says it is a chassis ground. It specifically says they do not recommend extending the grounding cable to the battery, says it can cause ground loops. So, do I not follow the instructions? This has me confused.
Edit: Just want to say I do appreciate all the input and I pass it along to the guy doing my installation. It is just difficult to talk him into doing something when he says it should not be that way, it says right here in the instructions on how to do it. So I really am listening to you guys
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