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First ride in new pontoon, question

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Scott1

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Well, I finally got to get my 2375 RCW on the water, I love how it drives, nice and smooth and plenty of power.  Here is what happened on first WOT:

After 10 minutes of just cruising, I opened it up to WOT and started trimming up some, watching my RPM's.  I only have analog gauge that I could find, so I don't have exact numbers.  I noticed I got up to around 6500 (I know over what it should be), the boat then when into a deceleration mode of types and I got the "High Temperature Alarm"

Everything was good after that, I looked at my temp when I slowed down and it came to about 150F, no idea what it got to.  I decided a while later to go WOT again and I watched my RPM's and kept them at no more than about 6400 with my trim.  Boat ran great and never had the issue again all day. 

With about 3/4 of a tank of gas, 2 people a dog and normal loading I got the boat to 50.3 MPH on my GPS, that is while limiting my RPM's.  I figured I need a larger prop, I have an Enertia 17P on it now, so the next step is a 19P.

The dealer service department is telling me if I go to a 19P prop, I will lose about 500 RPM?  I thought I would lose about 300 RPM which would be about perfect.

Any suggestions or thought?

On a side note, I had them raise the engine 1 hole, they did not want to do this and usually ship them out the door with the Engine all the way down.  I did check out my anti-ventilation plate at cruise speed and I looked to be right on the water line, so it is not to high up as far as I am concerned.  Of course the dealer went right back to this when I was talking to them about my RPM's.

Thanks

Scott
 
Sounds like you were blowing out trimmed too high and not enough water for the water pump to pull in causing both issues.
 
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Thanks for the reply.  I still think I need a bigger prop because with no trim I am still at 6500.  I do agree, I may have been trying to trim too much the first time.

Everything I have read says the anti-ventilation plate should be just "above" the water.  If not, it acts as a drag.  Even the OEM's I think are saying this is how it should be.  Many people on here have told me the same, so I guess I need to research some more.  Below is a link I was given on this topic

http://www.veradoclub.com/index.php?topic=137.0
 
I don't know if the rule applies where you should be able to see the anticavitation plate at cruising and full speed. I cannot see the plate a bit and my prop slip is very low.  The Verados are pretty high reving engines, and 6400 rpms is about as high as you want.

You might call Bennington customer service to see if they have any setup notes on your boat and engine combination.  I know they pay attention to props and engine heights on their boats.

The proper setup is a balance of the propeller pitch and the height of the engine.  What's nice about the Enertia prop is that it's available in 1 inch increments so you can get it setup perfectly.  It's best to go to the lake with 3 props, and take it by trial and error.  It's also best to setup the engine after it's okay to do full throtttle runs--after some hours usage.

My best suggestion is to go to pontoonforums.com and PM "Bryden".  He has a high performance tritoon with a 225 hp Verado with a Simon Motorsport ECU flashed to 315 hp.  Bryan's third part time job is testing propellers, and he's intimately familiar with the subject on tritoons.
 
Bamaman said:
I don't know if the rule applies where you should be able to see the anticavitation plate at cruising and full speed. I cannot see the plate a bit and my prop slip is very low.  The Verados are pretty high reving engines, and 6400 rpms is about as high as you want.

You might call Bennington customer service to see if they have any setup notes on your boat and engine combination.  I know they pay attention to props and engine heights on their boats.

The proper setup is a balance of the propeller pitch and the height of the engine.  What's nice about the Enertia prop is that it's available in 1 inch increments so you can get it setup perfectly.  It's best to go to the lake with 3 props, and take it by trial and error.  It's also best to setup the engine after it's okay to do full throtttle runs--after some hours usage.

My best suggestion is to go to pontoonforums.com and PM "Bryden".  He has a high performance tritoon with a 225 hp Verado with a Simon Motorsport ECU flashed to 315 hp.  Bryan's third part time job is testing propellers, and he's intimately familiar with the subject on tritoons.
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Yes, I got a lot of information from Byran, he suggests the plate be above the water slightly.  Also, the break in for the Verado is WOT for 1 minute every 10 minutes for the first two hours of operation, so I think I was properly following the break in procedure.
 
Scott1 said:
Yes, I got a lot of information from Byran, he suggests the plate be above the water slightly.  Also, the break in for the Verado is WOT for 1 minute every 10 minutes for the first two hours of operation, so I think I was properly following the break in procedure.
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Correct.

You need to try the 18p which is what I have. That should drop you 150-200 rpm which should be about perfect.
 
TomS said:
Correct.

You need to try the 18p which is what I have. That should drop you 150-200 rpm which should be about perfect.
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I agree.  When on the phone with the dealer he thought the next step for the 3 blade prop is a 19P, that is only true on the Eco prop.  The standard Enertia prop does have a 3 blade 18.  I agree this is probably what I should go with.
 
Another question on the prop.  If I order a new one, it would be the RH turning prop, correct?
 
I assume your dealer will be swapping the prop for free?  To me, it's his responsibility to get your boat setup properly and that includes putting the correct propeller on it.

That's one honking motor.  Simon could perform his magic on that engine for about $650, but you'd have to again reprop the engine to a higher pitch--out of your pocket.   I understand the Verado driveability is also improved with his remapping the ECU. 

But at even 50 mph on a big square party barge, you're scaring the passengers already.
 
Are LH props only used in Austrailia? How do you tell if your motor needs a RH or a LH prop?
 
Rockie69 said:
Are LH props only used in Austrailia? How do you tell if your motor needs a RH or a LH prop?
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Twin engine rigs, need one of each. other than that on a single engine rig it can be either or doesn't matter but RH tends to be the standard rotation setup for the engines and gear cases on single engine boats.
 
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hmm? our new 2014 F150 XA came left-hand (LH) (so I suppose that means we can only use LH when shopping for a spare?)
 
tyjy said:
hmm? our new 2014 F150 XA came left-hand (LH) (so I suppose that means we can only use LH when shopping for a spare?)
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Left hand props are usually cheaper but there isn't a big selection.
 
(sorry if hijack) Little confused... is it the MOTOR that's set up for LH so we don't have a choice when buying another? OR do we have a choice either RH or LH?
 
The gearcase determines which direction the prop turns, so you're LH only if that's how it is now.
 
Thanks TomS : )
 
Do you have a pic of the prop that's on it now?
 
Hmmm... Why couldn't you use a LH prop on a RH motor? Wouldn't that just cause the throttle lever to work backwards? There's just one gear each direction. Not like it has a transmission. I might actually like that... More of a joystick control vs conventional.
 
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