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Insurance Question

The sad part is, homeowners hear 25, 30, lifetime warranty. What they DON'T do, is read the warranty thoroughly.

I deal with this day in and day out.

1. Just because we sold the product, we do no warranty the product. Don't scream at me....... I'll direct you in the right direction, but screaming at me, well, you might not like where I direct you to go ...... :)

2. Read the fine print, almost every shingle warranty has a prorated portion after so many years. If your 30 year shingle goes bad after 25 years, you got 80% of the lifespan, so you get 20% of $$ value.

3. REGISTER your product warranty AND SAVE PROOF OF PURCHASE or make sure your builde/remodeler gives you the paperwork package that should include warranty info.
 
Shingle warranties are a scam. The crap that is coming out of shingle factories is head-shaking, especially contractor-grade. More than ever, "you get what you pay for," regardless of the guarantee.
 
My aunt use to be involved with big brother big sister, her little sisters loser boyfriend bought a used car and told us, and I quote "the best part of the car is it came with free insurance!" What an idiot!

You can also have the best shingle but with shotty install and poor attic ventilation it won't last. I've seen my fair share of moldy attics too. Bath fan exhausts in the attic, blown in insulation covers the soffit vents and chokes the ridge or turtle vents.

I have so many stories from being in countless homes around the U.S. It would make a great reality show
 
As much as I would love the Andy LakeLiving show you have made me nervous as I just had 3 houses roofed with CertainTeed shingles in 2014. 
 
goldnrod24 said:
Shingle warranties are a scam. The crap that is coming out of shingle factories is head-shaking, especially contractor-grade. More than ever, "you get what you pay for," regardless of the guarantee.
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This goes for lots of stuff. Those $300 42" LCD tv's at Wally World ..... If all you want to do is watch tv, they are great, but I like more than one HDMI input, I also want usb input, a SD Card slot, and numerous audio video inputs. Plus the refresh rate typically sucks too.

Cheap cameras, Cheap TV's, Cheap tablets ..... In my industry, it's cheap doors, cheap windows, etc.......

It's amazing. People will spend $40K on a car with a 5 year warranty, and don't blink an eye when they start paying hundreds or thousands year #6 for repairs.

Buy a $150 window with a 20 year warranty, and they raise he** 21 years later when they have to pay $70 for a piece of glass, they hit the roof .....  :blink:
 
Link said:
As much as I would love the Andy LakeLiving show you have made me nervous as I just had 3 houses roofed with CertainTeed shingles in 2014. 
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Don't worry Mark, The shingles in question are no longer produced. They were an organic mat (felt) style shingle manufactured in the 90's, early 2000's instead of fiberglass backed like they all are today. My house, car port and shed are all in certainteed landmark dimensional shingles. Weatherwood for the color.  

I was a certified residential roof inspector through HAAG Engineering so I'm seen my fair share of good shingles, manufacturers defects, and shotty installations.
 
Anyone have a recommendation on a good sump pump? Mine is starting to make funky noises and I need to replace it. I'm looking at a Wayne 1 hp.
 
Rockie69 said:
Anyone have a recommendation on a good sump pump? Mine is starting to make funky noises and I need to replace it. I'm looking at a Wayne 1 hp.
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These guys are a great source Base Products Corporation. I used them after a pump (only 1 year old) from the local big box failed and caused $40K+ damage to my basement. I put in dual SP2500 pumps with one as secondary, plus a BasePump (city water powered). No batteries for me, as I learned they're mostly worthless.
 
I have a water powered backup pump. Ran two days straight a couple years ago when the power went out for two days straight after storms came through.  Neighbors up and down our street with battery backups got flooded basements when their batteries went dead. I had a water bill that was about $50 more than normal from two days worth of our water running full out. Dry basement though.  A lot cheaper than my deductible. We put somewhere between $80-$90k in our basement when we finished it.  Insurance would not have covered all the damage. I think our policy has a $20k limit on sewer and water backup.


Get whatever pump you want. Just make sure you get a water powered backup.
 
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Too funny!  Just realized I started this thread over two years ago!!
 
Considering most sump backup endorsements have sublimits less than 40k that had to be some out of pocket expenses. Crazy how many people have zero, or tiny backup limits. 
 
Thanks guys! I have a water powered back up, and one in another part of the house that is water powered (deeper). Do not ask my why... but the moron that built the house ran my garage floor drain into the main sump instead of the storm sewer drain, and I have a sunken porch that he ran to the same pump. So needless to say when it rains the thing runs constantly. One of those things you don't think about until you start digging deeper.
 
Rockie69 said:
Thanks guys! I have a water powered back up, and one in another part of the house that is water powered (deeper). Do not ask my why... but the moron that built the house ran my garage floor drain into the main sump instead of the storm sewer drain, and I have a sunken porch that he ran to the same pump. So needless to say when it rains the thing runs constantly. One of those things you don't think about until you start digging deeper.
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Take it easy on the builder. I know that the code in MD. will not allow any sub surface or surface water into public sewer systems.Heck, I've been fighting with one county government agency about introducing furnace condensation to the public system. As far as your garage drain,if your house was in MD., It would also require a grease trap before being routed where ever. OVER REACH OF GOVERNMENT!
 
Bob, we sell materials to Md. builders. What's the builders (home buyers) estimated average financial impact due to the water management regulations? I've heard numbers ranging from $10-$40K depending on size of house/lot. 
 
1Blderbob said:
Take it easy on the builder. I know that the code in MD. will not allow any sub surface or surface water into public sewer systems.Heck, I've been fighting with one county government agency about introducing furnace condensation to the public system. As far as your garage drain,if your house was in MD., It would also require a grease trap before being routed where ever. OVER REACH OF GOVERNMENT!
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After I found it I contacted the city. They would have approved it being tapped into the the storm sewer line that runs right next to my house out into the wetlands behind my house. If it becomes a nuscance I'm going to have it ripped out of the garage floor and done right. As for the sunken patio... same thing. I know the city would approve because I had 10" tile line ran out back the length of the house to keep all eavestrough AND sump pump water away from the pool. It was tapped right into the storm sewer. Only stipulation is I cannot drain or back flush the pool into it, it has to go through the city sewage treatment plant. Believe me, it could and should have been done differently. Right now I'm siting timing my sump pump. It's running every 3 minutes.
 
SEMPERFI8387 said:
Bob, we sell materials to Md. builders. What's the builders (home buyers) estimated average financial impact due to the water management regulations? I've heard numbers ranging from $10-$40K depending on size of house/lot. 
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I'm telling customers that we need to budget $35,000 towards the storm water management regs .And even more if the lot is in the critical bay area. And if we keep this up,the kids will be living with us for ever! 
 
Rockie69 said:
After I found it I contacted the city. They would have approved it being tapped into the the storm sewer line that runs right next to my house out into the wetlands behind my house. If it becomes a nuscance I'm going to have it ripped out of the garage floor and done right. As for the sunken patio... same thing. I know the city would approve because I had 10" tile line ran out back the length of the house to keep all eavestrough AND sump pump water away from the pool. It was tapped right into the storm sewer. Only stipulation is I cannot drain or back flush the pool into it, it has to go through the city sewage treatment plant. Believe me, it could and should have been done differently. Right now I'm siting timing my sump pump. It's running every 3 minutes.
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Damn, I should move to Iowa.They are much easier on the regs.Just look at the previous post.All kidding aside, I couldn't move. We need the ocean and the bay. Every 3min.you must have high ground water and clay soils.Good luck with your situation.
 
1Blderbob said:
Damn, I should move to Iowa.They are much easier on the regs.Just look at the previous post.All kidding aside, I couldn't move. We need the ocean and the bay. Every 3min.you must have high ground water and clay soils.Good luck with your situation.
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Stay where you are, Md is a beautiful area! Yes the water table is high with clay and worse yet the lakes and ponds are mud holes. 
 
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