Transducer Replacement

donmartin

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Lake Havasu City, AZ
I busted the bracket on my Garmin transducer which the only fix is to replace it. I have the replacement. I know the best option is to home run the sealed cable all the way back to the Echo 100 in the dash. I've looked at how the original cable is routed which appears to be on top of the port toon and then cutting across about midway under the floor to the console. I could probably get the toon part done but have no idea how to get it under the floor without tearing the boat apart.
I'm also considering cutting the existing cable, soldering it then shrink wrapping it but wondering if that will cause issues. Any recommendations?
 
I busted the bracket on my Garmin transducer which the only fix is to replace it. I have the replacement. I know the best option is to home run the sealed cable all the way back to the Echo 100 in the dash. I've looked at how the original cable is routed which appears to be on top of the port toon and then cutting across about midway under the floor to the console. I could probably get the toon part done but have no idea how to get it under the floor without tearing the boat apart.
I'm also considering cutting the existing cable, soldering it then shrink wrapping it but wondering if that will cause issues. Any recommendations?
I asked Bennington to upgrade my transducer form the standard HDI they offer to the Active Imaging, but they would not - even if I paid and sent them the unit. I emailed Simrad about splicing the cable, they did not recommend and said replacing the cable was better. Right - as you noted it disappears under the deck with the under skinning, and appears to utilize cable ties, so trying to run a new line is problematic or maybe even impossible unless you start taking off the under skinning. However, I noted that Simard offers an extension cable. So, I have to assume that splicing the cable is about the water protection. There are marine solder fittings and shrink wrap that come with a sealing glue to make them water tight. I figure I am going to splice into the line leading down the back of the tube, then tuck the extra length into the access hole above the tune. I am waiting on the response from Simrad proposing this solution.
 
Stick it in some wire loom for protection and just snake it across letting it lay on top of the skinning. You can always add cable ties if and when you pull the skin off someday.
 
Use something like this to get it across.

 
SemperFi, my company ran data cable and we preferred fire sticks. Stiffer and easier to control. Can keep screwing on units as needed.
1621687967749.jpeg
 
I am adding a transducer and was looking at the current routing of the cable and also saw it went across the pontoon from port to starboard. The one thing I did see by sticking my phone up under the edge was that the cable was about 6 ft from the TD and connected to a longer cable to the helm. I have a SIMRAD so I’m not sure it’s the same for all. Worth a look if you haven’t yet.7B924FC7-7CD9-4DBB-BEB0-D89C03137711.jpeg
 
We installed a new sound system in my 2020 gsb23 and had to remove all the skins underneath the boat (and by We I mean the installer) it was a pain and took about 8 hours, the worst part is dealing with the stainless rivets, he had a pneumatic rivet gun which made it much easier, it can be done if necessary
 
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