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20 hour check

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Rick C

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Here it is mid July and we only have 8+ hours on our 2012 20' LSI.

Wife and I sure love the new Benni. We are not speedsters so we have the 50 Yamaha. We are impressed with the boat and motor.

We had a 2001 50 Yamaha on our pervious 16' cat hull until we bought our new toon. I was wondering if most folks have the 20 hour check done at their marina or change the eng. oil and lower unit gear lube their selves? My dealer says they change the oils but not filters. And check the engine with their computer for $235. We have always changed oils and water impeller on our pervious eng. our self.

Happy Boating

Rick

Central Fl.
 
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I did it myself. Did the filter too.
 
my wrench said he would do it if I wanted but if it was his boat he would bring it in at the end of the season. He said you made the right choice and bought the yamaha. Enjoy the rest of the summer. Bring it in for the winterize and he would take care of it then.

Justin
 
I had just had the upper and lower done on a 150 Yamaha at 25 hours by the Dealer for $155. That included him driving to my site and hauling in and out. I have no trailer. It was a messy job even done by the mechanic, I watched him.

Check your warranty docs you need documentation to keep it valid.

I am going to let the dealer do my work during the warranty period.

While he was doing the service a buddy of mine and i did some bottom scrubbing.
 
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This is one of those damned if you do and damned if you go elsewhere subjects. There's no good answer.

My dealer's 100 miles away (no local Bennington dealer), and it's just too far to go for an oil change/lower unit change. It's just a 1/2 hr. job for a non-mechanic like myself. If the engine is running perfectly, I see no reason to scope it.

I always do my own maintenance because I enjoy wrenching, and I'm too cheap to pay $110 per hour to anyone when I can do the task. The checklist @ 20 hours is in the customer paperwork.

I was looking at the cost of a Yamaha fuel injection pump and other parts. They're sky high for even little items. I plan to take much better care of this 4 stroke than I ever did my old Yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke. Things are also very complicated on these CAN/BUS engines--with computer modules talking between themselves. The day of the shade tree boat mechanic is just about over.
 
Rick C said:
Here it is mid July and we only have 8+ hours on our 2012 20' LSI.

Wife and I sure love the new Benni. We are not speedsters so we have the 50 Yamaha. We are impressed with the boat and motor.

We had a 2001 50 Yamaha on our pervious 16' cat hull until we bought our new toon. I was wondering if most folks have the 20 hour check done at their marina or change the eng. oil and lower unit gear lube their selves? My dealer says they change the oils but not filters. And check the engine with their computer for $235. We have always changed oils and water impeller on our pervious eng. our self.

Happy Boating

Rick

Central Fl.
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Quick question Rick.............why wouldn't the dealer change the filters........... especially after the initial oil change? This is where a new engine would most likely have a few metal shavings that was caught by the filter...............
 
I also would change the filter a the first oil change.
 
Daril I am not sure why the dealership does not change the oil filter at 20 hrs. I plan to do it myself. I also read where you need to replace the washer on the oil bolt drain. I did not have this on my 01 Yamaha...new technology I guess.

Have a great boating weekend.
 
I have a 2010 20SLI with the Yamaha 50T engine. I didn't do anything until the end of the season when the dealer did the maintenance and winterization.
 
BigKahuna said:
Quick question Rick.............why wouldn't the dealer change the filters........... especially after the initial oil change? This is where a new engine would most likely have a few metal shavings that was caught by the filter...............
Click to expand...
Our local Bennington/Yamaha Dealer did oil changes at 25 but said the filter wasn't necessary. A few metal shavings even if they exist are going to be trapped in the filter and not circulated.

there is no way at 20 hours that a filter is going to have collected significant clogging contamination.

Dealer says filter at 75 hours.

I'm keeping records. Yamaha can fight it out with the dealer if there is an issue.
 
I change my oil filter at every oil change. A new oil filter costs about $15. That's cheap insurance for a motor that costs how much???? Replacing it shouldn't even be a question. New oil / new filter = happy motor!
 
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I only have a 20 hp Yamaha (restricted lake) but the MANUAL says oil at 10 initial hours, and filter at 100/end of season, so per Yamaha, filter not necessary, BUT, for $15 it's cheap insurance.
 
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I too will be changing the filters @ 20 hours.

I try not to use Fram filters, but they and K&N have great websites to cross reference factory OEM oil filters to other filters easily available at the big national auto parts stores.

For example, my Yamaha F150 oil filter fits all kinds of ATV's, motorcycles, Toyotas, Kubotas and other products. The Yamaha filter is the same as Mobil's M1-103 @ $12.99 and Purolator L14476 @ $3.99. It'd be interesting to see who builds Yamaha's OEM filters.
 
I got a helpful hint, a few accessories, and a walk-through on how to change oil in my 4 stroke yamaha from my dealer in North Carolina.

The first accessory is an adapter that screws into the oil drain plug. Tilt the motor all the way up, remove the plug, insert the adapter with short hose to a drain can, then lower the engine and let it run dry. The second accessory was a bottom cut out gallon jug with cap installed that is trimmed to fit in the engine opening around the filter. Nothing is perfect with this approach but it will catch most of the oil when the filter is removed.

When I left the dealer, I had the oil, filter and gasket for the 10 hour change plus the annual change which also includes the gas filters (two - one on gas supply (water separator) and the other mounted on the rear of the engine.

Good luck with your oil change and a few steps such as I've mentioned will certainly keep the mess to a manageable cleanup task.
 
If you punch a couple of holes in the filter before you remove it, it will drain and make less of a mess. Loosen the filter but don't remove it, punch the holes on the top and let it drain while you're draining the oil then remove it. Always remember to put some oil on the gasket of the new filter before installing it..
 
A big thanks to you all for your help and good ideas. I plan to do the job when she hits around 20 hours. Sure is one smooth running engine and the shifting is smooth as butter!

This is a great site...sure would be fun to have an annual gathering!

Rick
 
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