20 SLM New Owner Questions

[AWK]

Ok, maiden voyage is over. Now for the questions of things I have found. First the dealer told me I need to remove the rear seat that is not hinged when I tow this. That would be everytime I use it. So I stow in in the "pop-up" room area, or in the back of my truck. Already seeing a scuff on one corner. Any suggestions as to secure this in it's place on the boat? Seems like a bad design to me. Also, I have this TENDENCY to trim the motor up (sometime out of the water) when I place my hand on the throttle. The trim button is right where my thumb rests. Ergonomically, its a great place, but not so much for me. The trim on this is SO QUIET that I don't realize what I doing until I here the sound of the prop slapping the water. Has any every add some kind of alarm to the circuit to inform that the trim is active? Also, my boat didn't come with a run strip, so after three times out I have had to replaced two snaps already, as a slight bump on the dock and they bend. Wondering if I can get the factory rubstrip installed, or if there is a good aftermarket suggestion. Many of the welds on the toons still has the slag or black carbon deposits. Has anyone found the best practice to remove these? I have played around some with the trim while at almost WOT and I really can't feel any difference. My last boat (Fourwinds 195 Sundowner) you could feel it smooth out and increase speed. Not feeling this here. However, this is my first Pontoon. Thanks for listening!

AWK

 

[Link]

AWK, I thought the same thing. My old boat [newbie,3 years ago which was my first] definitly was more noticable. If I were moving along at 30mph and I played with the trim you could feel the difference as well as see the speedometer move from 30 to 34 whereas it doesn't seem to make a difference on my Bennie. Taking off I have a it someone under the hal and once planned move it up to 3/4 mark and then don't touch it

 

[Bamaman]

Remove the rear seat that is not hinged--I never heard of such a thing. Mine is held in tightly with Velcro. Has anyone else had a dealer tell them the same thing?

Has anyone added some kind of alarm to the Power Trim circuit? No, you just need to watch the trim gauge and grip it differently.

Wondering if I can get the factory rubstrip installed? Yes, see your dealer.

Slag or black carbon deposits They may can be lightly sanded smooth, however you might have to polish and Sharkhide all the toons. I plan to do this @ my 20 hr. service as my May, 12 built boat is tarnishing already.

Can't feel any difference with trim Power trim on a boat without strakes doesn't change the speed much, as the toons continue to plow through the water. With strakes, speed and efficiency comes with trimming the engine up to get the nosecones out of the water. I always ran my old pontoon with the anticavitation plate parallel with the boat's hull.

 

[AWK]

"Remove the rear seat that is not hinged--I never heard of such a thing. Mine is held in tightly with Velcro. Has anyone else had a dealer tell them the same thing?"

Ummm... I don't remember seeing any Velcor. I will check that this weekend. If I could tow it with the play pen cover installed I would be all set! Thanks for the responses.

AWK

 

[1roadking]

I tow mine with the cover installed and it hasn't been an issue. You will get used to the trim tab bottom and stop hitting it by accident. I have the same issua with the rub rail, it is not a great design at all. Snaps break and the rail gets marred and or dented really easily. The snaps are cheap and easily replaced, but I am already replacing the front section of rub rail due to a dock kiss. I believe the front section is only around a $100 so not bad, but a pain in the rear end. I to would like to add a rubber strip, but was told it won't fit the existing rub rail properly any suggestions team Bennington?? I love my boat and this is a minor annoyance but one I would like to fix.

 

[SEMPERFI8387]

Look over all your welds carefully ... Just sayin ..... I had a lengthy discussion with Bennington mgmt about this very issue ......

A fine soft bristle brush (brass) may do the trick. Test in hidden spot first.

I do question, why they do not make a small removable corner piece, and hinge that seat like all the others.

There are aftermarket rub rails that could be installed pretty easily. Look on Overtons or West Marine if your dealer can't hook you up on the Heavy Duty one from Bennington.

 

[2013 20 SLX]

Look over all your welds carefully ... Just sayin ..... I had a lengthy discussion with Bennington mgmt about this very issue ......

A fine soft bristle brush (brass) may do the trick. Test in hidden spot first.

I do question, why they do not make a small removable corner piece, and hinge that seat like all the others.

There are aftermarket rub rails that could be installed pretty easily. Look on Overtons or West Marine if your dealer can't hook you up on the Heavy Duty one from Bennington.

Benningtons are the way to go very durable and nice looking ! Heavy duty rub rail well worth the cost.

Ron

 

[Jim_R]

... the dealer told me I need to remove the rear seat that is not hinged when I tow this. That would be everytime I use it. So I stow in in the "pop-up" room area, or in the back of my truck. Already seeing a scuff on one corner. Any suggestions as to secure this in it's place on the boat? Seems like a bad design to me....

AWK

AWK, are you referring to the rear corner triangle shaped 'wedge' seat? This is the only seat without a hinge on my boat. I think that your dealer was just being cautious. At first I too would remove and store this seat when towing, but recently have left it in place with no issues. It is a pretty snug fit. As far as design issues go, there really isn't a place to hinge it; I would think it a bad design to fix it in place and not allow access to the storage space below. Anyway, I know velcro has been mentioned as a method of securing it, another method would be to employ a variance on the old hook and loop method. Secure a loop of bungie type material (think ponytail hairband) to the front side of the wedge seat. Under the seat support area, in a corresponding location to your loop, install a small drawer pull or hook. When replacing the seat, secure the loop over the drawer pull or hook, then push the rear of the seat in place. The loop will prevent wind from raising the front lip of the seat while towing.

If you prefer to store it, just wrap a towel around it to prevent scuffing.

Hope this helps!

 

[AWK]

I will check on the Velcro. I don't tow it far or fast, rarely above 60. 22 miles is the most I will be towing now. I will leave in installed.

thanks AWK

 

[SEMPERFI8387]

AWK, are you referring to the rear corner triangle shaped 'wedge' seat? This is the only seat without a hinge on my boat. I think that your dealer was just being cautious. At first I too would remove and store this seat when towing, but recently have left it in place with no issues. It is a pretty snug fit. As far as design issues go, there really isn't a place to hinge it; I would think it a bad design to fix it in place and not allow access to the storage space below. Anyway, I know velcro has been mentioned as a method of securing it, another method would be to employ a variance on the old hook and loop method. Secure a loop of bungie type material (think ponytail hairband) to the front side of the wedge seat. Under the seat support area, in a corresponding location to your loop, install a small drawer pull or hook. When replacing the seat, secure the loop over the drawer pull or hook, then push the rear of the seat in place. The loop will prevent wind from raising the front lip of the seat while towing.

If you prefer to store it, just wrap a towel around it to prevent scuffing.

Hope this helps!

Actually an easy design change as I stated above would be to make the "corner" seperate as in this picture so both lounge seats would hinge and you would have the small "loose" corner.

Actually, they do it on the G series ........

 

[SEMPERFI8387]

TB,

Any thoughts on seat design change for the stern S seat. This is a real pain to get into with the live well set up under that seat. It would be REAL nice if it was hinged. I know it would cost a couple bucks more, but I would happily pay a difference.

Smitty

 

[Maynard G. Krebs]

I have played around some with the trim while at almost WOT and I really can't feel any difference. My last boat (Fourwinds 195 Sundowner) you could feel it smooth out and increase speed.

Maybe you're expecting too much by comparing to your old boat. I have a smaller motor but can still see the bow rise 2-3" when the trim is adjusted. More noticeable on glass than chop. It's very subtle, optimum trim yields just a .5 mph increase and slightly smoother ride at wot. I needed GPS to find the best setting.

 

[AWK]

Maybe you're expecting too much by comparing to your old boat. I have a smaller motor but can still see the bow rise 2-3" when the trim is adjusted. More noticeable on glass than chop. It's very subtle, optimum trim yields just a .5 mph increase and slightly smoother ride at wot. I needed GPS to find the best setting.

I think you are correct. I just need to get use to it. I was out yesterday on a lake as smooth as glass. We were the only boat other there! I used my GPS and could see a SLIGHT increase in speed. It was the raising and lowering of the bow that was more noticable! Just like you stated. Good thing I didn't buy this to be a speedster! Best I could get was 21.2 MPH at 5300 RPM (that was with 1/2 tank, two people, and the Bimi up).

Good news is I have gotten over my accidental trimming issue. Each trip out I learn more and more. You can teach an old dog new tricks.

AWK

 

[cwag911]

5300 is a little low with 2 people in it. Could be time for prop experimentation. B)

 

[AWK]

5300 is a little low with 2 people in it. Could be time for prop experimentation. B)

OK, I was readng that some are getting 5500-5800 out of this. However, it seems fast enough. Best thing is this thing is SO quiet when going slow. Purrs like a kitten at 1100rpm and a slight trim. If it wasn't for the steam of water, you would have a hard time knowing its running. I do need to get an extra prop.... just in case. So I will get one with a different pitch.

AWK

 

[PDX Hosedragger]

Look over all your welds carefully ... Just sayin ..... I had a lengthy discussion with Bennington mgmt about this very issue ......

A fine soft bristle brush (brass) may do the trick. Test in hidden spot first.

I do question, why they do not make a small removable corner piece, and hinge that seat like all the others.

There are aftermarket rub rails that could be installed pretty easily. Look on Overtons or West Marine if your dealer can't hook you up on the Heavy Duty one from Bennington.

I'm curious about you "Look over your welds" comment. What event happened that makes you say that?

 

[SEMPERFI8387]

I'm curious about you "Look over your welds" comment. What event happened that makes you say that?

I don't really want to get into details here on forum, all I will say is there was a thread awhile back from an owner with leaking welds.

He had to have the toon pulled from water and welds repaired.

I sent Bennington mgmt. pics of welds on dealer lot, they addressed it at production level and I believe they addressed and fixed the issues that were causing the quality issues.

All I'm saying is where the cap is welded on to rear end, check the weld and ensure no missed spots around the perimeter.

Smitty

 

[Geoffrey & Brenda]

I believe we're talking about weld splatter, and the black deposits and small balls of aluminum it leaves behind.

This is simply part of welding, i am sure there are ways to prevent it, but not without a price.

If the black deposits bother you, take a brass brush to them, i cleaned mine up with one, and if you're looking close enough to see the little balls, back away from the boat