2014 2275 GS Build

From what I can tell, the Mercury 150 FourStroke is a fine engine.  After reading on this forum and on the bass boat forums, nothing but nice things have been said.  And if buying the engine for repowering or outright, the Mercury is over $2K cheaper than the standard of the industry--the F150 Yamaha.  I have not compared prices of the two engines if they were being ordered thru Bennington, however.

If I was buying another boat today, it would have the new 4 cylinder F200 Yamaha.  It's the same size and weight as my current motor, however it's quite a performer--faster.  And I assume it's the motor that the SPS 200 is really designed to handle.  
 
It would be nice to see the F200 and Merc 150 perform side by side.

I just love the simplicilty Merc has instilled in this motor.

Merc 150 Displacement of 3.0L is impressive.
 
Just some updates to the build:
+SPS 200 (awesome tip from this board)
+Fuel/water separator
+The lift strake upgrade we had planned is for sealed strakes; not adding any strakes to outside tubes, pretty sure OEM has this planned to not affect the banking
+Since aft live well is only 9 gallons, dealer is working with mfg to add another 9-12 gallon up front
+Added salt water anodes; not sure why but just in case we stray into the gulf or Florida

Thanks everyone!
 
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Ok, I know why Bennington has this site!!

So we can browse and constantly spend more$$ on boat upgrades

I added the Wet Sounds speakers, amp and sub

I also changed from the Echo 300 to the Echo Map 50s.

We live on a big lake with the TN river so GPS on boards seems like a nice feature.

I really want to get the Garmin echo map 50dv.

Dealer is checking with mfg to see if this can be done.

It' only $100 more on the Garmin site and the imaging looks excellent.

https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/on-the-water/fishfindergpscombos/echomap-50dv/prod119860.html
 
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Ok, I don't have the power assist steering on this build.


Big mistake? or one less thing to maintain?


Is the hydraulic steering really that bad of a performer?
 
Ok, I don't have the power assist steering on this build.

Big mistake? or one less thing to maintain?

Is the hydraulic steering really that bad of a performer?
There isn't really anything to maintain other than keeping fluid topped off and bleeding as needed. If over 150 definitely consider the PS option though it can always be added to hydraulic later.
 
Yeah with the 150 Merc, I am right at the threshold point of deciding if the power assist is worth it.


I think I will stay with my decision to just have the hydraulic.


If I really don't like it, I have the ability to add later.
 
Yeah with the 150 Merc, I am right at the threshold point of deciding if the power assist is worth it.

I think I will stay with my decision to just have the hydraulic.

If I really don't like it, I have the ability to add later.
It is always a consideration though that Bennington will warranty it for 7 years if you include it with the boat.
 
Excellent point.     B)
 
Nice!
 
Took the maiden voyage today...

Observations:

1) missing LED's from bimini (Benny quality again)

2) no salt water logo (Benny quality again)

3) trim gauge doesn't work (dealer or mercury quality)

4) dealer told me he drove the boat the first 0.10 hours and hit 5000 rpm, which is a no-no according to mercury manual

4) ordered SPS 200, but when I filled the tank from empty, it only held 27 gallons (did they ship the SPS 150 instead?/ I have the 3rd tube storage)

5) neutral and reverse are very difficult to shift

6) transducer is not registering; no depth gauge registering

I am kind of pissed these Mercury/Bennington dealers are not religious about the mercury break-in instructions.

More time on the water to come.
 
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Mercury break in for my 150 says run it 1 minute out of every 10 at WOT right from the start. Motor break in is not the same thing as babying it. You want to be somewhat aggressive with it. Read your manual, and follow the instructions EXACTLY.
 
Shifting won't be like a car. You want to shift quick and forcefully into gear. Don't let it grind by shifting too slow. Be sure to read your manual thoroughly.
 
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Mercury break in for my 150 says run it 1 minute out of every 10 at WOT right from the start. Motor break in is not the same thing as babying it. You want to be somewhat aggressive with it. Read your manual, and follow the instructions EXACTLY.
Yeah, manual says the first 2 hrs are critical. don't exceed 4500 rpm.
 
Shifting won't be like a car. You want to shift quick and forcefully into gear. Don't let it grind by shifting too slow. Be sure to read your manual thoroughly.
A fellow boat owner and I both had trouble getting to neutral.

What do you think about adjusting the shift cable or something along those lines?
 
Very nice !!
 
Yeah, manual says the first 2 hrs are critical. don't exceed 4500 rpm.
Mine does NOT say don't exceed 4500 roms. It says full throttle one minute out of every ten, then no more than 4500 rpms for the other 9 minutes, and constantly vary the rpms. Do this for the first two hours. You want to give it a good work out, accelerating and decelerating up to 4500 rpms to get the rings to seat nicely in the cylinders. I have the Fourstroke, which I think is what you are talking about. I'm only reiterating this because I don't want to see you mess up your break in... Make sure you read and understand your manual.
 
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