Back to the main site

Battery help

BulldogsCadillac said:
Oh, and thanks for the links Jim, that fuse one is a definite interesting read! As for wire, I will be running Wet Wire from Wet Sounds, 1/0 for main power from batteries to the helm, then from the distribution blocks to 4G to the individual amps. Wet Sounds actually has a 4 Amp Rear (longer cables) wiring kit that comes with everything you need!
Click to expand...
Except Ring Terminals. So What do we think about those? Do I go for the set screw ones, the crimp ones, and I think I read somewhere about soldering ones, but could be wrong. It will be for the 1/0 gauge, to the battery and the shunt, I think all the Wet Sounds fuse holders are set screw already. I was looking on Sonic Electronix http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_f117-1251_i337_ring-terminals-maximum-input-gauge-size-1-0.html I don't know which is best for Marine use. The StreetWires PR10 InterLok looks interesting, a bit pricey. Also like the looks of the black ones, but it seems like it could add more resistance wouldn't it?
 
For any ring connectors 8 awg and up, I suggest Marine tinned seamless lug terminals:

31omVUlkrmL._SX342_.jpg


They are crimped, not soldered when used in marine applications, although there is some debate about soldering if not used as primary method of fastening. You would then want to use heavy duty double walled adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.

There are many styles of crimping connectors out there, and some can get very pricey, but I have had good luck with this relatively inexpensive 'brute force' crimping tool.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Two or three good whacks with a 2lb sledge on each side does the job, and presents a very good crimp appearance as well.
 
I have mixed thoughts, although they claim they have superior vibration resistance and are 70% stronger than crimp connections, they do use soldering as a primary means of fastening. I would stick with ABYC guidelines and use crimp connectors. I see that Quick Cable offers a crimp line as well, so one could use a heavy wall copper lug at the 'last' battery, a flag connector at the middle battery and copper lug or flag connector at the 'first' battery. I wonder how well the flag connectors lend themselves to battery terminal covers?
 
do you like the crimp ones better than the compression ones? Also, my batteries have both types of studs, so I could use normal style automotive clamps for the parallel cables, then stick to the ring clamps for all my speaker and accessory wires, is that what you think?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I used terminals similar to what Jim_R posted and had my local auto parts store (NAPA here) cut the cable to length and crimp them for me. They had a purpose built crimper that was serious business. It did it perfectly and they didn't even charge me for it.
 
My problem is my dealer's location is about 1.5 hours from a major city, I don't know what he has for parts/cable, so I don't know what I need to bring or have made. That's why the compression or solder ones might be easier since I still don't know actual placement of my batteries and how long of cables I need. I ultimately desperately need to get a pretty detailed drawing/measurement of the main battery compartment and the under seat section on an RCW (where the fuel hose runs through) so I can draw it out and do some dry fitting of my components before hand. Anyone want to tackle that? Probably not. It's kind of a lot to ask.
 
I'm glad to do it but it's probably different on your tower boat? Also, each one is probably a little different. I tried to anticipate everything, but until I actually got my hands in there and measured the real thing it didn't make sense.
 
The under seat area of the side with your fuel will be the same, I think. You have the Ltd, but I would think the seat frame would all be the same. The biggest difference is in the starboard lounger, mine will be the same as the port basically. Yeah, I know there are going to be a few tricky areas. I wish I could drive to my dealers and just start trying it out or do it all myself. I'm trying to figure out a way to place the batts and charger so I can still remove them for storage, not to mention just fit the damn things in there to begin with!!! If you can it'd be MUCH appreciated!!
 
Ok I'll give it a shot, but it's not all at right angles and there were little lips all over the place, so not a simple geometry to measure up. And of course, mine's stuffed full of group 31's!
 
Whatever you come up with is better than I have!! haha I just know that there are 'holes' in the floor in some places and even if you draw out a little picture with some numbers, whatever you feel like, As my father always said, " Beggars can't be Chosers!!"
 
Derrick,

Check your email for new goodies.

Tom
 
Jim_R said:
Looks pretty good, but you will need to tie the ground from the House/Start bank to the Stereo Battery bank (or negative connection from motor). Fuses are easy, you just need to know what gauge wire you are protecting. I'll dig up a chart. The hard part will be determining what gauge wire, this is done by load and length (voltage drop) - no need to worry about 'engine room' calcs as you have an outboard.
Click to expand...
Wow, It never ends! So got the charger and was checking it out, and I see a 'post' (bolt and lock washers and nut) and I go hmm, what's that for? So I look on page 2 and see that it is listed as the ABYC Recommended Bonding Stud. So I read further onto page 11 under the Installation and it shows this,

3. Ground - This is extremely important and often overlooked. There is one common battery ground with the positive battery connections on the ProNauticP. There is also a “Chassis Ground”.

A. Battery Negative - As shown in the diagram, this is connected to a bus bar or terminal stud

(not included) that can handle, at a minimum the amperage of the charger output (1260 =

60 amp minimum). This conductor shall be of equal size to the DC positive conductor chosen

above. The battery negative terminals are connected to this bus bar or terminal stud.

B. Bonding Stud A.K.A Chassis Ground - This stud is connected to the boats bonding system

as well as the bus bar or terminal stud mentioned above. This conductor is permitted to be

one size smaller than the DC positive conductor chosen above; in the case of a DC to the

case fault, this conductor is critical in carrying the fault current to trip the fuse or breaker,

the AC ground CAN NOT handle high DC amperages.

So I had the Negative out wire going to the load side of my battery monitor shunt in my little schematic diagram, where would I put this Bonding stud negative to?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I don't know that Bennington even uses a bonding system, except maybe on the saltwater version. Normally the purpose is to keep all the metal parts at the same voltage reference to prevent galvanic corrosion.

Here is a decent reference on it http://www.marinesurvey.com/yacht/ElectricalSystems.htm
 
Good find Tom!! Man you're handy to have around!! Thanks!! I'm thinking that since this charger is meant to be hardwired in a large vessel that has an actual living quarters type of thing.
 
I thought you were going to live on it Derrick. You should with what you have invested in it :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Link said:
I thought you were going to live on it Derrick. You should with what you have invested in it :)
Click to expand...
Great ..... Now you gave him more to think about .... Hmmmmm tower enclosure capability, flip down flat screen TV, pop up bed .... :)
 
Link said:
I thought you were going to live on it Derrick. You should with what you have invested in it :)
Click to expand...
Nah, too many mosquitoes! Especially this year, I was up until 2 in the morning because my legs were so frigging itchy from bites!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top