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Best way to clean and polish pontoon logs?

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Jrcphish

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Hello. We bought a 2007 Bennington and are loving it! We went a little crazy and had a 8' power pole installed to. I'm now focused on a good cleaning. I've used about a galllon of toon brite getting rid of most of the discolorations...and now I'm looking for some expert advice.

1 - I think I need a hand polisher like the Dewalt DW849x - will that work well?

2 - what type of polish is best to use? Do you recco the buffing pad or polishing pad (sorry - I'm new at this)

3 - I've read that some suggest coating toons in "shark brite" after polishing to keep shine and avoid oxidation - is this true for benningtons?

Thanks for your help - looking for any input on best polishes / finishers / pads to use.
 
Start here, and then do a search as there are Numerous threads about this very question.



And this one ....
 
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The DeWalt will work fine, very similar to the Makita 9227C I used. Get the wool buffing pads, the polishing bonnets are not aggresive enough. When the pads get loaded up with residue clean them in the sink with hot water, dish soap, and a stiff bristle brush. Put the pad back on the DeWalt and slowly bring it up to full speed for a minute to dry them. Just be sure to hold the tool so you're not in line with the pad spray or you'll end up looking like some kind of weird Dalmation.
 
I researched aluminum polishing very carefully before buying a Porter Cable Dual Action polisher/sander. The Dewalt polisher you're talking about is much more aggressive, and it's easy to get swirls in the aluminum. Those machines are best used in body shops by professionals. Most car and marine detailing webs are pushing the Dual Action polishers for both individuals and body shops.

I went after the tarnish with White Diamond metal polish obtained in the "pro" section of Advance Auto Parts. I tried Mothers aluminum polish, but it was crap. I also purchased the 6" wool bonnet.

Put two dime size dollups on the bonnet, place the bonnet on the toons, and cut on the polisher @ medium speed. Go up and down, back and forth on a 2' x 2' section, and in about 90 seconds the black aluminum oxide will turn to a powder and mostly disappear. Wipe off the rest of the black with a towel. Admire your shine.

I intended to use Sharkhide protectant, however I couldn't get the black oxide out of the cracks and welds. Even after cleaning and cleaning with lacquer cleaner, bad black smudges got into the Sharkhide. Frankly, it's much easier to just polish the boat from time to time than getting the toons clean enough to apply Sharkhide. I can probably polish the outside of two toons and the nosecones in an hour--not bad.

My polish job not a mirror image, but it's very shiny. Realistically, I don't have the time, energy and desire to maintain a near mirror image.
 
Bamaman, Do you know any more specifics about your wool Bonnet? Seem to be som many out there.
 
Do you know which wool bonnet you p[urchased. I have the PC polisher and the White Diamond, just need the wool bonnet? What is real wool, some seem to be cutting more than other? I want what you have, good but not mirrored.
 
This is from 2003, he may not respond. Last time he was in was Dec. 2019.
 
Bob225 said:
Do not use Sharkhide if your leaving it in the water, only if you trailer or put on a lift. It will get just as bad in the water and that much harder to clean at the end of the year.
Click to expand...

I would disagree with part of this statement. What remains out of the water will look good for years if you don’t rub on it (fenders and such). We are going on year 4 and our toons look like new above water.
 
Problem is that you have to remove that if your polishing the entire toon. Over the years the upper side got scummy for us. I’m sure the type of water you are in makes a big difference.
 
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