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Larger Bennington boat cleats

Funny you just posted this because I sent those photos to Mandy Hall (waranty) earlier this morning and she JUST now emailed this back to me:

According to production it appears your boat still has the wave tamer plate installed up the side; that will have to come down (the plate that is wrapping under the cross members).
 
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I have no idea how I'm going to remove that. That is exactly where the bolts/nuts should be lined up with though (Derrick's earlier question).
 
sounds like a fun job. If I was closer I'd give you hand.
 
lakeliving said:
sounds like a fun job. If I was closer I'd give you hand.
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LOL....if you're in Howell I'm not that far way....I live just east of Jackson, Michigan about 2 miles south of I-94. :D
 
I have to do homework, feed the hog....what ever else that kid said in Christmas vacation. I'll leave you with a comment a buddy of mine used years back. Another friend called and asked if he was coming over, he just replied " I'll call you if I'm close" So Keith, I'll call you if I'm close!
 
If only you were closer.........
 
Well Bennington now tells me that wave tamer plate that would need to be removed is pop riveted on. So no way in heck I can even begin to remove that. Looks like my only option is to do what Lakebum suggested which probably won't happen.

Bummer.
 
keithkz said:
I would be VERY grateful if you could do that and they figure it out. I would really like to get this all done before my big summer trip the middle of next month. Thanks in advance.
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Keith.......never made it to the lake on Friday. Thunderstorms in our area every day this week and yes it poured today also. Going to the Tiger Woods (AT&T) golf tournament near DC Saturday and Sunday so no boat/ lake for us this weekend......I'll let you know when the shop looks at it.........
 
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Forgot to tell you.........showed my boat to the guys in the shop at our marina on Friday and they confirmed that the Tamer plate does have to be removed and it's not that hard a job.......They told me to give you this link and take your time.............then you will be easily able to get to the 2 bolts that secure the cleats.............Good luck!
 
Hmmmmm .... I've never seen a rivet removed with a punch ??? I've always just drilled the head off the rivet ....
 
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I would stay with the " drilling " method .

Rocking the punch may damage the tamer.

In the first video it looks like it is being done on a plastic kayak and you can see it flex .
 
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Thanks guys. It's nice to finally have someone confirm what I've been saying all along.....that something has to be removed before you can get at the bolts. Still cannot believe that two Beiington dealers and Bennington Customer Service didn't know this.

I'm wondering though if it wouldn't be easier to just use Lakebum's suggestion of drilling from below to where I think the bolts would be (below the cleat) to get access tot he bolt? I would like to replace that entire corner casting as well...not just the cleat itself.

I guess I still don't know how I would go about removing and then refastening the Tamer plate. I'm a visual guy and do not do well with a blind repair....meaning I really need to see it done once.
 
When Lakebum suggested drilling out the bottom, I agreed with it. When I saw your picture, I saw that your wavetamer is a beam not a c-channel. You would need to drill through the top and bottom of the piece. You would have no room for error and the arbor might run into something you don't want to drill. I would drill the rivets and remove the wavetamer and then decide if you need to replace it. Our 2008 model does not have it so maybe it is not needed.
 
I believe the cleats available currently are one piece corners .

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Nope, the corner castings are separate. I saw them sitting on my dealers shelf yesterday.
 
Mine sure look like they are one piece . Do they have two styles ?
 
I know they look like they are one piece but they are indeed two separate pieces. I asked my local dealer about it already. There is only one style.
 
keithkz said:
Thanks guys. It's nice to finally have someone confirm what I've been saying all along.....that something has to be removed before you can get at the bolts. Still cannot believe that two Beiington dealers and Bennington Customer Service didn't know this.

I'm wondering though if it wouldn't be easier to just use Lakebum's suggestion of drilling from below to where I think the bolts would be (below the cleat) to get access tot he bolt? I would like to replace that entire corner casting as well...not just the cleat itself.

I guess I still don't know how I would go about removing and then refastening the Tamer plate. I'm a visual guy and do not do well with a blind repair....meaning I really need to see it done once.
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With all the time and effort you have put in I would also replace the corner casting .
 
With all the time and effort, might as well buy a new boat.

Woohoo I'm post # 100 in this topic... :/
 
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