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Oil change 350 I/O

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Geewest

Guest
Hey was looking for some tips on changing my oil. Our other boat 2275 RLI/O with the 350 v8 had the oil drain line attached to the transome drain plug pretty simple.

Our new boat 2575 qcw with the 350 v8 has no oil drain line attached to the transome drain plug. Just wondering if some one might be able to point me in the right direction. I looked deep inside the motor box and could not find anything. I can always extract threw the dip stick but would rather not.

Any advice on motor oil? What does TB recommend ? In my ski boat I always ran straight 40w
 
I have had several I/Os over the years and have always pulled it out through the dipstick. A good hand pump will pull warm oil out of the dipstick in under 5 minutes. I run Merc's 25w40 in the 2 I/Os I have now, It cost less than 50.00 to do an oil change with filter. Figure if I can't afford that, then I shouldn't have a boat... :rolleyes:
 
Geewest,

The dipstick tube should be threaded for a hand pump, easy to do. I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic 10-30. and Fram filter. Less than $40. Every 100 hrs.

2006 2275 I/O Volvo-Pena

Riverbill
 
Last time I had a Mercruiser, there were threads on the top of the dipstick. There was a pump that screwed on that would pump the oil out.

There are also a number of lift pumps that'll suck the oil out of the dipstick tube through small tubing.

I have a Yamaha 150 hp engine, and my dealer said he uses a lift pump--instead of using the plug on the back of the engine/outdrive. I guess they're just cleaner and easy to use.
 
I wonder if the lift pumps get all of the old oil out. Has anyone ever tested them? Pump all of the oil out, and then pull the plug to see how much was left.
 
I bought a Jabsco Lift pump today. They had 3 kinds at the shop. #1 tradition Hand pump, hose slides down the dip stick. #2 Hand pump that threads on to the dip sitck.

#3 Pump that works with a electric drill, tube slides down the dip stick tube. I got the traditional hand pump because I figured the dip stick does not go all the way to the bottom of the pan. It would stop just short of it. With the kind that you slide the tube into the dipstick tube you can slide the tube all the way down and into the bottom of the oil pan.

I called the dealer and he said he was 99% sure that threw indeed was a oil drain tube attached to the motor lifting ring. I will have to take a 2nd look before I try the lift pump. I would rather drain threw the drain tube then use the lift pump but if thats my only choice the Ill do it.

here is a pick of the pump I got

15993.jpg
 
This is the pump I own. Oil Pump About 20 pumps on it and 5 minutes later all the oil is in the tank...
 
I don't understand what the big deal is with using the drain plug on the back of the motor. You might need to do some surgery on a plastic funnel to get the oil out without making a mess. If the boat's on a trailer, it'd be an easy maintenance item.

I see no reason to pay a dealer $199 for a 20 minute oil change/ lower unit grease change.
 
Bamaman; sorry but I'm lost I don't know if you realized we are talking about a V8 i/o i have never heard about a drain plug on the back of a V8.
 
Geewest said:
Hey was looking for some tips on changing my oil. Our other boat 2275 RLI/O with the 350 v8 had the oil drain line attached to the transome drain plug pretty simple.

Our new boat 2575 qcw with the 350 v8 has no oil drain line attached to the transome drain plug. Just wondering if some one might be able to point me in the right direction. I looked deep inside the motor box and could not find anything. I can always extract threw the dip stick but would rather not.

Any advice on motor oil? What does TB recommend ? In my ski boat I always ran straight 40w
Click to expand...
Geewest.............

There's not much room to work with in our "motor pod" w/our 4.3L V6 I/O. I could imagine it's much tighter w/the bigger V8. I used to do all the maintenance on our old bowrider I/O but on our Bennington I have the oil changed and the lower unit grease changed when I have it winterized at the end of the season. I guess I've gotten lazy......I use the recommended Mercruiser 25W40 oil.............
 
Geewest said:
Bamaman; sorry but I'm lost I don't know if you realized we are talking about a V8 i/o i have never heard about a drain plug on the back of a V8.
Click to expand...
Sorry, some of us hijacked the thread and started talking about outboards which have the drain plug on the back.
 
I plan on changing the out drive fluid while Im doing the Motor oil. This seems like a easy job, what are people talking about when they say changing the grease in the lower unit
 
Geewest said:
I plan on changing the out drive fluid while Im doing the Motor oil. This seems like a easy job, what are people talking about when they say changing the grease in the lower unit
Click to expand...
Same thing.
 
Is there a Cross ref for the Merc Oil filter. The one that's on my boat is Part number 35-866340K01

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Geewest said:
Is there a Cross ref for the Merc Oil filter. The one that's on my boat is Part number 35-866340K01

Untitled.jpg
Click to expand...
I found these: click They're the same as a small block chevy. Look up 1991 camaro, v8 5.0l
 
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Thanks for the Link and part. I found a Oil Filter at the local Mecury Dealer he had a Volvo Penta brand filter part # 835440 that cross refferanced the Mecury filter.

Interesting fact QuickSilver brand is a product of Mecury. Only Mecury dealers can sell Mecury parts so when you go to a place like West Marine that is Not a mecury dealer and you buy Quicksilver brand parts your buying Mecury with out the name on it. It even says this on the back of the Quicksilver parts
 
Geewest said:
Thanks for the Link and part. I found a Oil Filter at the local Mecury Dealer he had a Volvo Penta brand filter part # 835440 that cross refferanced the Mecury filter.

Interesting fact QuickSilver brand is a product of Mecury. Only Mecury dealers can sell Mecury parts so when you go to a place like West Marine that is Not a mecury dealer and you buy Quicksilver brand parts your buying Mecury with out the name on it. It even says this on the back of the Quicksilver parts
Click to expand...
On our old bowrider I/O I used to use Fram oil filters from Walmart all the time. It's amazing how much more money a "marine" oil filter is when they are both exactly alike and used in the same engine.............
 
The engine has a drain plug located at the bottom of the oil pan. The factory (Bennington or Mercury) may have installed a hose into the oil pan drain plug fitting and extended the hose through the transom. That hose is then capped until removed for service.

Personally, I prefer to drain used oil, rather than use a suction gun. Two reasons, One, I filter draining oil with a thin cloth to catch any metal or debris, (indicating engine failure) Two, we use diesel fuel to purge the engine. (Purge means; after draining used oil, replace the oil pan plug and pour in a couple of gallons of diesel fuel) Without starting the engine, the diesel fuel is then drained, along with any remaining used oil and any contaminants.

The oil filter is then cut open with a filter cutter. The filter is inspected for metal and debris. From time to time, the filter and a used oil sample are sent to a lab, such as Cummins Diesel for analysis. Any and all used oil with contain metal. The lab will only be looking for an excessive amount. Mercury also offers the analysis service. Subject to using the lab analysis at each oil change, a history is created. Any spike in metal content is cause for concern.

We use Rotella T 15-40 and change regularly. Red-line, Amway, Royal Purple and other synthetics are also options. The key to marine engine durability is to change oil and filter on a regular schedule.
 
The pump I bought did not work that well. It was a lot of work to suck the oil threw the dipstick tube. (it was 104) out yesterday and I didn't feel like getting the motor and oil hot to drain it. Working in around the hot motor in the heet would have been pretty bad yesterday. So I'm sure if the oil was warm it would have made the job a bit Easyer. But you could tell the suction tube that went down the dipstick tube

Would not grab oil untill the tube as at the very bottom and you could tell the tube made a sharp turn at the bottom or it was the suction tube hitting the bottom of the oil pan. Bottom line I would not recommend this pump for this boat. I have used this exact pump for other jobs and it works great.

I ended up going down to the Local Marine shop and they lent me the Electric oil extractor. It's a 3 gallon bucket with a Jabsco 2 way pump mounted on top of it. It came with a few different attachments to screw onto the different size dipstick tubes. You simpley screw the suction tube to the dipstick and then turn it on. I was able to extract what seemd like all of the oil. I say that because I put 5-1/2 quarts back in the boat.

Ccando; I agree with you I would much rather drain from the oil pan, but I still can't find the Drain tube. Either I'm blind or stupid or it simpley dosent exist on my boat. Like I said in the first post our other boat has the drain tube you talked about and I was surprised to NOT find one on my new boat.

Every other boat I have worked on has a drain tube, can't understand why I can't seem to find this one, O well the job is done, looks like I will be investing in a Electric Oil extractor.

I changed the Outdrive fluid on my Bravo 3 This was very easy and a 10 min job. Most of the time is waiting for the oil to drain out. I cycled the outdrive up and down a few times to get all the oil out it was very hot outside and the outdrive fluid came flowing right out but I would recommend that you

Get the motor oil and out drive fluid warm to aid you in getting it to flow out.
 
Why not add an electric pump? Some electric pumps for changing marine oil are two way, the pump the oil out and can be used to pull new oil back in, it is a lot easier and cleaner. Just my 2cents. I wouldn't own an I/O without putting one on during the first oil change. I have a couple friends with I/O units with 2 way electric pumps permanently plumbed into the oil pan and wired in with a switch by the pump next to the engine.
 
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