Should I do an oil change...

[kaydano]

Break-in period on our Merc 115 is at 10 hours, then change oil. Unfortunately I was only able to get 5.5 hours on the motor last fall before the marina shut down. I had the oil changed at that point as part of the winterization.

So, question is, should I change it again in 4.5 hours when it reaches 10 hours? I don't mind the cost of the oil change, it's hauling it to the shop and back that's a pain. I'd probably have to drop it off one night, pick it up the next night, and it's an hour round trip each time, so two hours driving, plus the time to hook it up, and unhook it from the truck twice, so, 3 hours minimum.

I'm thinking it would be the safe thing to do, and might be necessary for warranty coverage. Just curious what your thoughts are...

Dano

 

[ericscher]

If you don't do it you'll obsess over it every time you think you hear a 1/10th octave change in engine tone.

 

[kaydano]

You are so right. How did you know?

 

[ericscher]

Takes one to know one.

 

[Looneymoose]

I did my first oil change at 23 hours on my Yamaha 50. I checked my oil level every other weekend. The oil was so clean I needed reading glasses just to see the oil level. I was at my dealership to watch him change the oil. The old coming out looked as cleas as the new oil he poured in. I am only going to have the dealer change my oil during the warrenty period. After that I know I can do it. It's easy.

 

[Ben & Suzy]

Don't be concerned about the 10 hr oil change interval since its already been changed. Change it again at the next interval. No worries.

 

[gerry]

My two cents. I agree with Ericsher, I would know I would obsess over that too, however.... I believe you need a certain amount of "dirty" oil to properly seat the valves. I know in our propane engines, we would run them the first couple thousand miles on gasoline to seat the valves, propane being too "clean". before we would convert them. You need a certain amount of friction. That being said still in my "old school" way of operating I preferred to make the first oil change in a new engine slightly early to rid the engine of any production particles. It seems your early departure from the lake last fall accomplished that. To me, your're good to go. Gerry

 

[Ken H]

In my mind a oil change is cheap insurance.

 

[Ben & Suzy]

In my mind a oil change is cheap insurance.

It sure is and since the oil was just changed, I'd say he's insured just fine. To change it again after a few hours just to meet the 10 hour interval mark would be absolutely senseless and totally unnecessary, but if it makes ya feel all warm and fuzzy.......it's your choice to make. You're already ahead of schedule compared to the factory suggested oil change interval time, so warranty is a non-issue.

 

[Scott Holmes]

For me if it is something I am going to worry about I just go ahead and do it. That way you can not think about it anymore and enjoy it.

 

[spinzone]

Dano, I could be wrong and will verify this afternoon in my manual, but wasn't the break in period 10 hours and the 1st oil change at 20 hours? If it is the case, it could buy you some time for an open weekend.

 

[Bamaman]

My suggestion is to learn how to change the oil yourself. It's such an easy, quick maintenance task. Then, you don't have to worry about the hassle of towing your boat a relatively long distance for maintenance, leaving it two weeks and going back to pick the boat up. It's just a waste of gasoline.

I'm reserving my marine dealership's service department for when the factory's picking up the bill (on warranty.) If I have to pay, I'm doing the maintenance myself.

My WalMart carries Mercury oil filters, which also fit Yamaha 4 stroke outboards with the same powerhead. The same filter also fits my year old Yamaha Waverunner. WalMart seems to be about $1 cheaper per quart of oil vs. the big box auto parts chains. They also carry Mercury brand oil thats substantially less expensive than my local boat dealerships.

 

[kaydano]

Dano, I could be wrong and will verify this afternoon in my manual, but wasn't the break in period 10 hours and the 1st oil change at 20 hours? If it is the case, it could buy you some time for an open weekend.

For the life of me, I can not find it in the manual. I was sure I read (or maybe heard my dealer say) 10 hours, but you've really got me wondering now...

I will call the local Mercury shop tomorrow and see what they say. I'll post their answer.

 

[kaydano]

It KILLS me to have someone else to do the maintenance, believe me, but during the warranty period, I don't want the hassles of having to prove I actually did the maintenance if something goes wrong.

At 45, I still change oil in our vehicles. Just because I like to. I sit on a chair in a box all day (office) and love to get out in the garage when I can. So, I'm dying to do the work myself on this nice new engine, but not for a couple more years...

 

[kaydano]

By the way, thanks for the Walmart tip. Would not have thought to check there.

 

[spinzone]

I read through the short break-in procedures on pg 61 of the manual. Nothing about oil changes. I then read through the rest of the manual to which nothing is mentioned regarding a break-in oil change, just the regular 100 hour/ once a season change.

I had mine changed at 10 hours and remember my mechanic saying I was doing it early but it couldn't hurt.

 

[slinkyredfoot]

If you changed your oil prior to lay up over the winter you should be fine for the upcoming boating season. I always change mine before winter lay up and run for the entire season after with no problems over many years.

 

[kaydano]

I spoke with both the local Mercury shop, and the manufacturer today (I submitted a question on their website and they phoned me in about 5 minutes - Impressive).

First the local shop: They said Mercury tells them to change the lower unit gear lube at 20 hours, and that they should check/inspect the engine oil at 20 hours but only change if necessary. After that, change both at the end of the season or at 100 hours, whichever comes first. Since I had both the oil and gear case lube changed last fall (at winterization) with 5.5 hours on the motor, they said I should be good for this coming season (or at 100 hours, whichever comes first).

Here’s what Mercury the manufacturer told me: It is not a manufacturer requirement to change the oil and/or gear lube at 20 hours, although many dealers will tell you it is. But, it is a requirement to change both at 100 hours. He still recommended changing both at 20 hours due to possibility of new motor finings/shavings being in the oil.

But here’s the interesting part: I told him I put 5.5 hours on the new motor last season, and what should I do. He said to change oil and gear lube now, and I should be good for the season. Huh? Change it now? I told him I just winterized it in the fall, and he said he’d change both fluids again now due to the possibility of condensation (for cold climates). He said I should still always winterize the motor in the fall (as in stabilize fuel, run it 15 minutes, fog cylinders, inspect stuff, etc) but don’t change the fluids until the BEGINNING of the next season (again, to avoid any water due to condensation). I never heard that before, but it makes sense.

So, he said even though the fluids are new, he would change them again now, and then I should be fine for the rest of the season (or until 100 hours). I can skip the 20 hour change/check.

Does anybody do this (wait to change the oils until spring)? I’ve read LOTS on this site about winterizing, but I don’t recall ever hearing anyone do it that way.

Spin - I probably got the “10 hours” from someone telling me to change oil after the break-in period (break-in is 10 hours). So, I guess I made the wrong assumption there. You were right, its 20 hours on a new motor, not 10.

 

[spinzone]

I thought the same thing about the 10 hour oil change. At least we know we are overly cautious.

I found the Merc rep's response very interesting. I have never done it this way but it certainly makes sense. On the other hand, one would have to wonder what contaminants are within and what the condition is of the oil prior to storing.

Everyday I'm on this forum I learn or am forced to consider something new.

 

[ericscher]

Heh...

I don't hardly work on anything anymore.

I CAN, like last month when I put up a new security light or tomorrow when I'll be converting a failed garden pond into a pondless waterfall...

I just don't WANT to.

I remember years ago, the mid 90's if I'm not mistaken, I had a 1964XLCH that I used to ride. This thing had a 1964 left case, a 1970 right case, a 1974 XL frame, a 1987 FX front end, a 1966 Turtle Tank, a Super "B" carb and all homemade wiring. I used to love adjusting the lifters at gas stops and changing the jets in the carb during pit stops, just to show the other guys how cool I was.

The time I used a matchbook's striker pad to file down this other guy's points (why are you riding a shovelhead if you can't do you own points?) and then gapped them with the matchbook cover, they were all so impressed that my bike couldn't hardly haul around my ego for the rest of the day, it had gotten so heavy.

So anyway, there was this friend of mine down from Cleveland on some jap bike... I can't recall the brand. He was a bout 20 years older than me and about 200 years wiser.

I was needling him about his bike and asking him when he was going to get a Harley. You know, a REAL bike. And not one of those newfangled Evolution bikes either...

He said he used to own nothing but Harleys but these days he preferred ridin' to wrenchin'.

I didn't used to understand what he meant. Oh, I understood the words alright, but I mean GROK. For you folks old enough to have read that book...

Anyhow, I sold that bike, which turned out to be my last Harley, about 9 or 10 years ago.

If I happen to buy another bike someday, and I might, it'll likely be a jap bike, with a shaft drive, electronic ignition and 100,000 mile spark plugs. B)