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loading and unloading on bunk trailers

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floves

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I only have experience with cantilever (scissor) trailers and I could easily load and unload by myself in a few minutes. I now have a bunk trailer and wondering if it's more difficult ( I usually have current and wind to deal with)? What is the procedure for loading and unloading with a bunk trailer? My bunk trailer has the poly boards that my dealer said the boat should slide off instantly. When do I release the winch? How much of the trailer should be exposed above water? I'm thinking I am going to have to tie a line from the boat to the dock before I get the trailer too deep. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
 
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NOTE: WALK THE RAMP FIRST AND CHECK FOR WASHOUT

When I did trailer, when launching I would put it in far enough to "just start" to float, then back it off. DO NOT POWER LOAD OR UNLOAD !!!!!

Loading can be fun with these sailboats ...... I typically put trailer in slightly less than launching, get lined up and run her up as far as possible WITHOUT SLAMMING STOPS, and cut throttle when it stopped on trailer.

I then winched the rest of the way.

With the poly boards it should come off easily and slide on pretty easy too.

Just don't hit a bunk with the keelguard, it will split it easily, ....ask me how I know. :(

Never hurts to have a tie off as mentioned, especially if launching alone.

Oh yeah, PLEASE, if launching alone, pop your lifejacket on ....we had a boater drown last year ..... docking by himself, they think he slipped, hit his head on dock or boat, knocking him out, and that was the end ....
 
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Great post, Semper! Good advice! I have had our boat for a year, and I've taken it in and out of the water probably 8 times. It's still a challenge keeping the big ol' barge lined up! Just go slow. Once you get the toons moving into the bunks, if you go slow she'll line up as you move her on up the trailer. I think having a tie off line is a must, even if someone is on board. Pontoons blow and drift so easily. Any extra control is worth it!

I'd love to hear feedback on the poly boards. We have a 2575 Q and she's a beast. She sticks to the carpeted bunks and is not easy to slide on and off without some power. But once she's on, she's not moving! I'd almost be nervous with the poly you could have some movement if you had to brake hard and put pressure on the post/wench. But sliding on and off into/out of the water sure sounds nice!
 
If you don't do it, wet the carpeted bunks before backing it, it helps a little ... dry carpet is the worst .... wet carpets a little better, you can buy covers for your existing bunks, just pull carpet and attach poly covers ....
 
My bunk trailer works awesome. It's a Loadrite trailer for my 2575 Benny and it has 4 of those guides that stick above the water so you can see exactly how you need to line up coming on to it and they also guide the toons the rest of the way on......those are a must. I have loaded and unloaded my beast by myself and it is no issue at all.
 
What is a keelguard? You said not to power load or unload, so when driving boat onto the bunks you just have to go slow? Sounds like loading guides would be helpful. I checked Overton's and there are so many options, anybody have any suggestions for ones that you like and use?
 
We keep our Benny in our marina storage yard so we launch it and put it back on the trailer every time we go out. Like Semper we have NEVER had to "power" launch or load. Just float it on and off. I remove the rear tie downs then back the trailer where the wheels are just about in the water. I remove the winch strap and the chain and w/my wife holding the front and rear ropes of the toon I slowly back the trailer down the ramp and it just floats right off. On those days that it doesn't float off I abruptly apply the brake to help it off.........................When we load her up, I back the trailer in the water and we both line the pontoons w/the bunks and float her on. Apply the winch strap pull it tight attach the chain pull the toon from the water and install the rear tie downs............................DONE!
 
It really depends on the slope of the ramp. In Canada, it is a shallow ramp and the boat floats on and off easily if I can get deep enough. In KY, it is a very steep ramp and the angle of the boat to trailer buries the front of the toons into the bunks. The back of the bunks are 5' deep in water so you can not see them at all and any guide is ineffective because you are floating above them. The boat gets stuck on the trailer launching and there is no way to winch the boat on the trailer. When you get the boat on the trailer up to the front stops, the angle means that on flat ground the boat is 4" away from the stops. We have a big downhill that we stop on and winch the boat up to the stops.
 
floves said:
What is a keelguard? You said not to power load or unload, so when driving boat onto the bunks you just have to go slow? Sounds like loading guides would be helpful. I checked Overton's and there are so many options, anybody have any suggestions for ones that you like and use?
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Keel guards are the metal triangle or 1/2 round on the bottom edge of the toons.

Power load is when you get part way on and throttle up to try and push the boat on (or off).

It can wash out the spot where the ramp ends and creates a drop off at the end of the ramp, your trailer tires can drop

off the end, and you can be in big trouble, or if you look up in another thread, end up with a "totaled" trailer.

IF YOU ARE LUCKY, you can pull it back up on ramp, get some help to try to lift it up (dangerous) or you might need a tow rig to "lift" it back out ... Not a good situation.
 
Remediation said:
It really depends on the slope of the ramp. In Canada, it is a shallow ramp and the boat floats on and off easily if I can get deep enough. In KY, it is a very steep ramp and the angle of the boat to trailer buries the front of the toons into the bunks. The back of the bunks are 5' deep in water so you can not see them at all and any guide is ineffective because you are floating above them. The boat gets stuck on the trailer launching and there is no way to winch the boat on the trailer. When you get the boat on the trailer up to the front stops, the angle means that on flat ground the boat is 4" away from the stops. We have a big downhill that we stop on and winch the boat up to the stops.
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I agree the slope of the ramp has a big impact. If you are puling the boat out of the water and have a severe slope on the ramp, pull out of the water SLOWLY. The back end of the boat will still be floating and can shift as you pull up. I actually shifted once and the boat started to push down on one of the guides on our trailer. Luckily, my spotter caught it and I was able to back back down into the water, adjust and move back up without damaging the guide, or worse! I really like the sounds of the poly board covers. If anyone has purchased and replaced their carpet, I'd love your advice on best place to get them and tips on installing if needed.
 
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Semper - I'm amazed at how often/quickly you post AND how helpful your posts are! Thank you for helping to make this a great forum!

P.S. My dad was a marine in WWII. Thank you for your service!
 
I have added bunk slicks to my bunks directly on top of the carpet. They made a huge difference especially during loading. The winched "beast" is much easier to retrieve since adding them.

I also added some poly loading bunks to guide the boat during loading. Those have also made a huge difference to the loading process.

Good Luck!
 
DJMbrooks said:
Semper - I'm amazed at how often/quickly you post AND how helpful your posts are! Thank you for helping to make this a great forum!

P.S. My dad was a marine in WWII. Thank you for your service!
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You are welcome !!! Oohrah !!!!!
 
Keithkz,

Could you send me a pic of your bunk guides? I have a wakeboard boat with them and it makes loading so much easier. I haven't tried loading my Benny yet but I can see that it may be a challenge. I would like an idea as to what they look like on the trailer. Thanks.
 
Do the bunk slicks need to butt together (end to end), or can there be space between them? I'm guessing you'd want continuous coverage (butt them together) but with 3 toons (6 bunks x ~20 feet each) you'd need a lot of these...
 
The instructions for the boards (from one of the links Semper put above) say:

4. Space Bunk Slicks on carpeted bunk and space evenly with no more than 12 inches between each Bunk Slick.

5. Area to be "covered" is from the rear end of the carpeted bunk to 5 inches past the most forward point where the boat hull comes in contact with the carpeted bunk (below).

So you can have some space between, but not much. I was thinking the same thing. I'd need a lot of them for a 26 foot tri toon! Still thinking about it though!
 
kaydano said:
Do the bunk slicks need to butt together (end to end), or can there be space between them? I'm guessing you'd want continuous coverage (butt them together) but with 3 toons (6 bunks x ~20 feet each) you'd need a lot of these...
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Note they come in a pack of 10 (16") so if you space them 12" apart, you get approx 23-1/2' per pack (16" + 12" = 28" x 10 = 280"/12" = 23.33') so you probably need 4 packs.
 
My new EZ Loader trailer comes with it already on, so if you want to wait until September, I can tell ya! Haha
 
BulldogsCadillac said:
My new EZ Loader trailer comes with it already on, so if you want to wait until September, I can tell ya! Haha
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Your kidding right? You are getting your new toon before that aren't you ?? Or is it just trailer coming in Sept. ?
 
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