New to Bennington, New to Boating, and New to this Forum

JCFaraone

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[SIZE=medium]Hello ALL! [/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]I appreciate the fact that Bennington owners (or soon to be owners) have a place to ask questions and share knowledge.  So I thank you in advance.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]I will be closing on and taking delivery of a 22 SSLX on Monday.  According to the specs on the Bennington web site the pontoon length is 21’ 6”.  The marine dealer is pairing the boat with a trailer that has an info plate that specifically says “MAX CAP. 1920 LB 20’ PONTOON.” [/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]Does this mean the trailer will be over capacity because the pontoon length is 21’ 6” (a foot and half longer that stated max cap)?  Should I ask for a different trailer?   I do not want it operating on the brink of max cap all the time.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]Again thank you for any advice you can provide.[/SIZE]
 
The length is not a big factror as long as the boat fits the trailer. The bunks should extend to the rear of the toons and your tongue weight should not exceed 10% of the total weight of boat and trailer.

The Max Capicity on the other hand is a big deal. Find the dry weight of the boat then add the motor weight and add another 1000 lbs for fuel, beer and all the crap you will end up storing on it. That number should not be greater than the max capicity.

It took me 3 try's to get the correct trailer for my 2375
 
Welcome Aboard JCFarone.  I am not very knowledge about trailers but I did look at the 22slx spec sheet for the lightest toon setup is 25" toons which read Hull weight no engine 2196 lbs, the eleptical was 2456 lbs.  Post info as to which toon setup you have so someone could advise you.  I am sure others will offer an opinion but I would absolutely express concern to the dealer.

You might also want to say how you will be using the trailer; do you trail to lakes or does you boat stays in the water.  I know when I bought my benny some here suggested I get the tandem even though mine stays in the water and I am glad I did
 
Hey JCFarone,

Welcome to the ZOO!!!!!!!

As Toon'r says, make sure the trailer can handle ALL the weight you are going to ask it haul. 2 axle with brakes and at least 13in wheels and tires rated to handle the weight also.

You will have a blast, have fun and let us see pics. Like they say, no pics, it aint true!!

Later,

Marc
 
Pontoon/tritoon boats with larger engines start to get heavy, and they have the aerodynamics of a block of wood.  They actually pull heavier than they are.  And since the trailers are so long, marginal trailers are best avoided.

I would certainly make sure that the trailer's a tandem axle if your motor's large.  With a 40-50 hp motor, you might could get away with a single axle and if you're not going to be towing in mountains/hills.

My 24SSLX has the Express Tube, and my trailer's only setup for two toons.  The 3rd tube support is not needed on ESP--but is with SES.  And because I have a 3/4 ton diesel with very heavy brakes, etc., trailer brakes are not really required.
 
I bought the 21SL with 25"toons and the F90 Yamaha 

I live on the lake and will not be hauling the boat around much

I bought the tandem trailer with dual brakes due to terrain (rolling hills ) 

Better safe than sorry 

ENJOY The 22SLX 

img_0877.jpg
 
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Thanks for the replies. I think the following info may help. My future boat is in dealer prep and sitting on the trailer... The length of the bunks appear to be spot on. That being said, I'm a bit concerned over all weight.

The GVWR is 2720 lbs

Hull weight is 2196

Evinrude e115snl is 390 lbs

22 gal tank at 6.3 is roughly 139 lbs

Those 3 combined are 2726... 6 lbs over.

That does not include anchor, safety gear, beer, ice, etc.

I'm a little confused if I need to include the weight of the trailer itself as well.

Again, thank you very much.
 
i would feel a lot safer with at least a 3500 lb capacity trailer whenever i'm towing.  the weight of the trailer should only be considered when calculating the gross vehicle weight capacity of your tow vehicle
 
Definitely need a larger capacity trailer, imho, at least 4000 lbs.  Better to be safe than sorry.
 
Welcome to the best forum on the web. Like everyone else. I feel you need a larger capacity trailer. Trailer-ing is a major safety concern and you need the proper equipment.
 
I can't imagine why the dealer is under sizing that trailer like that. It's dangerous to you and to his business. I agree with above, but absolutely a 3500# minimum capacity. Also at that weight brakes are mandatory, if not by law, then by obligation not to drive something that's not safe.
 
Thank you everyone for the responses. I talked to the dealer who said that they will put me in a tandem trailer with a higher GVWR... I do not know the details if the new trailer yet. They believe the cost difference is about $500 to $700. My concern now is the attitude of the salesman. They have not admitted that the original trailer is unsafe given the weight of the boat and engine. The say things like "we will put you in a different trailer if you feel uncomfortable in this one." These type of statements makes it sound like upgrading is a choice that I am making because there is nothing wrong with the trailer they were providing. It sets it up it for me to pay the difference on the new trailer because it is a choice. The original purchase order list a trailer with no specs except that it is a single axel and the amount. I assumed that said single axle would be within safe limitations.

I will stand my ground and not pay a penny more than agreed upon... Even if that means walking away from the boat.

Again thanks everyone.
 
Get the tandem.  If a tire blows out, you'll still have 3 tires and you won't be dragging a rim without a tire on the pavement like you would if you only had 2 tires.  You'll save the rim, and you may be able to limp home, or at least to a safe place to deal with the situation.

Get brakes on at least one axle.  If you have to slam on the brakes and swerve to avoid hitting something, the trailer brakes will help keep the trailer from jackknifing around you.  I have brakes on just one axle, and they work VERY well.  I can stop the entire rig almost as quickly as I can stop without the boat hooked up.
 
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One thing you could do is contact the trailer manufacture with your specifications and see what they recommend, then ask them what the challenges are in going with a smaller trailer. You'll get the information you need directly.
 
Jared is right, bypass the dealer.
 
yup, Jared is right, get it from the source.
 
I can't imagine why the dealer is under sizing that trailer like that. It's dangerous to you and to his business. I agree with above, but absolutely a 3500# minimum capacity. Also at that weight brakes are mandatory, if not by law, then by obligation not to drive something that's not safe.
Good Point Semperfi

I am curious if he is related to a dealer in PA ?

JC

Is your dealer INSANE ?

IMG_4403-Edit-2.jpg
 
Good Point Semperfi

I am curious if he is related to a dealer in PA ?

JC

Is your dealer INSANE ?
Under sizing and equipping the trailer has long been a problem with marine dealers. It's usually not something the buyer wants to spend big money on and often doesn't know any better. I've dealt with several dealers who didn't even know how to properly calculate the capacity. It's one of the reasons I went to the guy I did this time.
 
I believe the dealer is going to come through on this.   The new trailer is a 22 ft aluminum tandem axle trailer with a GVWR of 5000 lbs...  At no cost to me.   I feel much better about it and will go on a dealer demo in the next few hours. 

The dealer claimed that he was looking and an old brochure in which the weight was listed as 1900 lbs without engine.   Not sure what to make of that... it is what it is.

Thank you...   I've learned a lot already.
 
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