Towing question

JeeperCRNA

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I am pick up my new boat on Monday. It will be about a 400 mile trip back. My question is do I need to use a transom saver for the motor or what position should I leave it in when towing it back?
 
Put motor all the way down, you will have no issues.
 
I am sure you will get a million different opinions on this... I have always raised my motor so it is “balanced” which for me is about 6” from the hydraulic rams. This has been a standard practice of mine for years from previous boats - all my other boats would have been scraping the road if left in the down position.

I guess you can’t teach an old dog new tricks.... either way don’t fret, your dealer should show you everything you need to know on how to safely trailer and as well as give you the run down on the boat.

congrats and we expect pictures upon pick up!
 
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Put motor all the way down, you will have no issues.
If you do not have room to put all the way down get a transom saver. Otherwise you will put too much weight on the hydraulics for the trim system.
 
Also if you haven't already get yourself a pair of heavy duty transom ratchet straps to securely attach your boat to your trailer for the 400 mile ride.....
 
Always towed all the way down. When backing into my driveway the first couple times, always had the wife get out and watch, once I knew there was clearance, never worried again! Whatever you do, DO NOT let anyone tell you to use the tilt lock lever!! It is only for servicing, NOT towing!
 
We will tow our 22SSX several times a year to the Keys (about 250 miles) and I always use a the Transom Saver. Why take the chance.

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I defer to the experienced advice above. Just wanted to Congratulate you on the new boat. Pictures when you get a chance. Always great seeing people shinny new boats.
 
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We will tow our 22SSX several times a year to the Keys (about 250 miles) and I always use a the Transom Saver. Why take the chance.

View attachment 28748
I read details that indicated these type of Transom Savers are really Hydraulic Savers after seeing a YouTube presentation (below). The boat engine will still bounce, which is what put's the pressure on the Transom, which this does not solve. They suggested Step 1: Get the boat tied down property (front and rear tie downs) so it's not going anywhere, then the Trailer to Engine Transom Saver. Seems if you boat could slide or move at all on the trailer, it really could cause more damage, but could not find any clarity.
 
This video is spot on I would think. The only thing is I'm not sure there are forces to the extent he duplicates by his shaking the motor violently. A good trailer suspension absorbs most of it.
 
I totally agree with the video on his definition of Transom Saver vs Hydraulic Saver. I looked into purchasing a “Transom Saver” originally however since my trailer lacks any Center Rollers, there simply wasn’t any connection point for the base of the Transom Saver.

Watching the video I noticed the gentleman only pushed “down” on the lower unit of the engine and never pulled it up. My concern is twofold. First is the necessity of securing the stern of the pontoon boat to the trailer so there’s little or no bouncing. Any significant bounding could cause the Transom Saver to potentially dislodge. Secondly, if the boat were to slide forward on the trailer, say following hard braking on a rough road the Transom Saver would then exhibit significant upward force to the hydraulics. Personally, I have found our Benny to have moved forward during trailering on several occasions.

I tie down my Benny using 4 ratchet straps so it is held pretty snug to the trailer. However it is amazing to watch how much she bounces being towed behind our motorhome. Having a backup camera allows me to watch the action...which is significant at times.

Yamaha recommends the device I pictured. It’s cheap and yes it is probably designed to safeguard the hydraulics. I’m not sure what Bennington recommends.

I hope this helps you decide on the best product for your specific use. Enjoy the hunt!
 
I totally agree with the video on his definition of Transom Saver vs Hydraulic Saver. I looked into purchasing a “Transom Saver” originally however since my trailer lacks any Center Rollers, there simply wasn’t any connection point for the base of the Transom Saver.

Watching the video I noticed the gentleman only pushed “down” on the lower unit of the engine and never pulled it up. My concern is twofold. First is the necessity of securing the stern of the pontoon boat to the trailer so there’s little or no bouncing. Any significant bounding could cause the Transom Saver to potentially dislodge. Secondly, if the boat were to slide forward on the trailer, say following hard braking on a rough road the Transom Saver would then exhibit significant upward force to the hydraulics. Personally, I have found our Benny to have moved forward during trailering on several occasions.

I tie down my Benny using 4 ratchet straps so it is held pretty snug to the trailer. However it is amazing to watch how much she bounces being towed behind our motorhome. Having a backup camera allows me to watch the action...which is significant at times.

Yamaha recommends the device I pictured. It’s cheap and yes it is probably designed to safeguard the hydraulics. I’m not sure what Bennington recommends.

I hope this helps you decide on the best product for your specific use. Enjoy the hunt!
 
Right! Now I suppose the idea is that we get our Toon up against the front bumper = not moving forward. Tie downs at the rear = no bounce ON trailer (vs with trailer). The Savers I have seen in use have bungies at both ends. I have seen several posts that suggest that Bennington / Mercury recommend Something should be used, but just no clarity exactly what to use. So, that leaves two issues: Hydraulic saver clearly makes sense as you have. But to protect the engine or transom from stress cracks, you have to reduce the bouncing which seems to mean either trailer the motor in the down position OR
use the engine to trailer transom saver. It does seem that stress cracks are a real problem per posts I have read and friends experience, yet they don't seem common based on the lack of certainty on this topic. I might bolt on a roller so I can use a standard transom saver, I have seen two that use special brackets, but did not like the design. Contrary to the video, I am thinking I will use aluminum, then if that cracks or breaks, at least I know the danger is real and the product works. LOL, the challenges of boat life.
 
In my uneducated, simple minded belief, if towing in an all the way down position it is completely not necessary. I base this thinking of a 10lb dumbbell. When held at my side, I could walk around all day and have no problem, if I hold it out at horizontal or 45 degree angle, the stress that it can distribute to my shoulder makes it impossible. This line of analogy may be totally incorrect, but I just think back to learning about fulcrums in the 4th or 5th grade and it makes sense.
 
In my uneducated, simple minded belief, if towing in an all the way down position it is completely not necessary. I base this thinking of a 10lb dumbbell. When held at my side, I could walk around all day and have no problem, if I hold it out at horizontal or 45 degree angle, the stress that it can distribute to my shoulder makes it impossible. This line of analogy may be totally incorrect, but I just think back to learning about fulcrums in the 4th or 5th grade and it makes sense.
I'm with you Derrick - and so is my dealer. I was worried about transporting our boat the 90 miles back to dealer this fall, and they said it's completely fine as long as the motor is down. Ran the 180 mile round trip with no problems.
 
We tow 900 miles each way to Canada yearly. Always tow with motor down. Plenty of clearance even with a trailer with 10" tires for ferry crossing.
 
In my uneducated, simple minded belief, if towing in an all the way down position it is completely not necessary. I base this thinking of a 10lb dumbbell. When held at my side, I could walk around all day and have no problem, if I hold it out at horizontal or 45 degree angle, the stress that it can distribute to my shoulder makes it impossible. This line of analogy may be totally incorrect, but I just think back to learning about fulcrums in the 4th or 5th grade and it makes sense.

To followup on Bulls comment, when the engine is in the down position the majority of the engine weight sits behind the transom. Kinda like holding the 10# dumbbell out horizontally. However, when the engine is tilted the majority of the engine weight is now above the transom Or like holding the 10# dumbbell vertically. Wouldn’t logic dictate that towing with the engine down puts much more stress on the transom? Just the way I’m looking at this?
 
To followup on Bulls comment, when the engine is in the down position the majority of the engine weight sits behind the transom. Kinda like holding the 10# dumbbell out horizontally. However, when the engine is tilted the majority of the engine weight is now above the transom Or like holding the 10# dumbbell vertically. Wouldn’t logic dictate that towing with the engine down puts much more stress on the transom? Just the way I’m looking at this?
I see your thought process there, but my idea is that I can hold a 10lb weight against my chest all day long, but if extended, no where near. If raised then you have the motor head in front of the transom, and the lower unit extended way out behind, therefore it would (in my belief) cause a constant push / pull strain on the transom. When I think of that it reminds me of how I weaken a piece of metal by twisting it back and forth, back and forth, until it finally breaks. I'd rather not. I believe that is why (if I'm remembering the post correctly) when one member was inquiring about using a jack plate, Bennington said no go as it changes and puts additional stress on the transom. Maybe I'm remembering wrong, but I swear that was the scenario.

But hey, what do I know, I'm just some guy! Haha
 
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