Spring Check List For Benny

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Here's something that may be of interest to The Bennington Family !

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SPRING INSPECTION FOR YOUR PONTOON BOAT

Tips for prepping your boat for the season.

By Dan Armitage Posted April 3, 2013

 

 

 

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Spring Pontoon Maintenance

Dan Armitage

 

Many latitude-challenged boaters will be launching our pontoon boats this month after what may have been several months on the trailer. If you performed a textbook winterizing job last autumn you have less to fear from the spring “break-out” ride than had you merely backed the rig into a corner of the yard after the final trip last season and ignored it ever since. On the other hand, just because your boat, motor and trailer were put away with TLC and have been idle over the winter doesn’t mean that nothing has worn, broken, seized or been damaged over the off-season.

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The fool’s way to learn what parts of your rig might have deteriorated over the winter is to simply hitch up the boat and go; areas that need attention will start popping up right away. For example, if your trailer’s wheel bearings allow you to head down the road without seizing for lack of lube, local law enforcement personnel will be happy to pull you over to point out any problems your trailer’s wiring might have experienced over the off-season.

BOATING'S FORD TOW GUIDE

If you failed to check trailer tires’ air pressure in your driveway with a gauge, a quick glance in the rear view mirror as you drive down the road will show any obvious “list” to the rig. The angle of the list will tell you which tires need more PSI. So will a blowout.

At the launch ramp, you’ll know if your rollers have seized if you have to back half the tow vehicle into the water to float the family pontoon boat off the trailer. Once launched, a turn of the ignition key will let you know the state of your starting battery. If the engine turns over but doesn’t start, you’ll know right away to the check the spark plugs. If the boat starts and runs for a while, then sputters and dies halfway down the lake, it’s a cue to check your fuel for water or debris.

FIVE LAUNCH RAMP NO-NO'S

When it comes time to turn the boat, and the wheel doesn’t – turn, that is – it’s a Red Flag that you may need to lube the cables and/or bleed the hydraulic lines or replace them altogether.

SIX TIPS FOR CHECKING BATTERY CABLES

Sooner or later watercraft officers will be happy to let you know if your boat’s registration needs updating, and will be happy to point out any safety gear that’s not up to snuff.

Of course, there’s an easier, less expensive and much less dangerous way to learn what might have “gone south” aboard your rig over the off season. That is taking the time to give your pontoon boat, motor and trailer a good pre-launch inspection before it ever leaves the driveway.

Here are a few of the things you can do to up the odds that this season’s “break out” voyage doesn’t result in a breakdown:

Trailer Tasks:

-Check the tires’ condition and air pressure and inflate to the recommended PSI

-Inspect the wheel bearings for grease and top-off as needed

-Clean each electrical connection with contact cleaner and test the wiring harness by hooking it up to the tow vehicle

CHECK YOUR TRAILER BEFORE TOWING

Motor Maintenance:

-Install new spark plugs

-Check the fuel filter and replace if needed

-Drain a bit of lower unit fluid, check it for water and top it off

-Inspect the prop for dings and signs of lower unit fluid seepage

-Hook up the starting battery to a charger and bring it to full power

-Start the motor in the driveway or at the storage facility, using water muffs or by placing the lower unit in a container to allow the water pump to circulate and cool the engine

HOW TO PREP YOUR OUTBOARD

Boat Duties:

-Give the pontoon logs a visual inspection for cracks, holes, dents or other flaws

-Drain a cup of fuel into a clear container and check it for water or debris; add fuel treatment to the tank and replace the fuel filter if needed

-Test the steering and lubricate, bleed or replace cables or lines as needed

-Inspect the safety kit and replace dated flares

-Check your boat’s registration and make sure it is current

FIVE FIRST RUN CHECKS

Perform the above on your rig and you’ll have much better chance of everything running right for the first trip of the season. No foolin’.
 
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Maintain your boat's battery to maximize your fun on the water.


Boats depend upon batteries more so now than they ever did. In addition to their main function as an energy source to turn the starter motor and start the engines, batteries run a host of accessories and onboard appliances. Use these tips to better care for your boat’s batteries.

1. Clean terminals and the case with a paste made from baking soda to neutralize any acid. More than one battery has died because the grease and acid film across the case became conductible and connected the two terminals.
2. Fill cells of flooded electrolyte (“conventional” batteries) with distilled water if they are empty or low. Tap water may contain minerals that can have a deleterious effect on the internal plates. Distilled water can be purchased at a pharmacy — or sourced for free from your dehumidifier’s condensate collector tray.


3. Make sure the positive terminal of the battery is covered. The most common way to achieve this is with a “boot” that can be purchased from retailers for a nominal amount. The boot prevents sparks and arcing and possible explosion if, for instance, a tool is dropped on it. This is why we recommend a boot on the positive terminal even if the battery is in a box with a cover: When you work on the battery, you will remove the cover.


4. Lightly grease the battery terminal posts. Too much grease is bad because it increases resistance. We recommend a dielectric grease, which is non-conductive. Many pros apply grease only after the connections are made.


5. Mark your battery with a grease pencil or nail polish to record the date of installation. We also suggest keeping a logbook. The factory date labels don’t last in the bilge or engine room environment.


6. Secure it right: Batteries must be tied down tight. We prefer a box or bracket with threaded road and nuts to those webbed straps, but anything that meets the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) spec of resisting 75 pounds of force applied is OK.


7. Swap out wing nuts on the terminals for nyloc nuts. These will not come loose and will ensure a robust connection. Loose connections impair charging, hinder output and increase resistance.


8. Charge batteries fully to 13.4 volts for flooded electrolyte and 13 volts for absorbed glass mat (AGM) batteries like the Interstate Deep Cycle pictured at top.


Myth Busters: It’s OK to store a battery on a concrete floor of a garage or basement. Old batteries had rubber cases that could become porous and allow some discharge. Today’s battery cases are plastic, so this cannot happen.
 
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Pittsburgh......

It's funny you mentioned batteries and there importance......every off season I religiously maintain my Interstate starting Deep cycle battery Group 24 1000 CCA. Every spring I get it tested to make sure it's up to par for the season. It's the original battery that came with the boat so this will be it's 11th season. Now I've got some friends that think I'm crazy for keeping a battery this long but every spring it has been testing strong so it's hard for me to to get rid of it............Some day...........
 
New lake..............New battery.                  :p    I also have an 8 year old Interstate in my Lawnmower. Go figure.
 
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I know Carl.......just hard to buy another one when nothing is wrong with the one I have........I know you don't want to get that call for HELP from me on the lake......Haha!
 
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I know Carl.......just hard to buy another one when nothing is wrong with the one I have........I know you don't want to get that call HELP from me on the lake......Haha!
Don't do it.... I had a battery on my goldwing about 6 years old --- it was fine but everything I read said "change it" -- so I did , the new one didn't last a year!!! Sometimes you get a gem... keep it.
 
I think I will royal4 until it tests bad.....
 
I feel confidant with new dealer that when Benny is delivered May 1st 

All of the above will be checked and doubled checked

Nothing better than knowing

The Boating Season will be 

Safe and Enjoyable 

Yarn-bombing-on-the-Andy-Warhols-bridge-in-Pittsburgh-3.jpg


        May 1st 

         Is Near 

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Terrible weather again, actually had about 20 minutes of snow flurries here yesterday
 
Yeah I have always been a battery fanatic as well.  I actually need to check what the date is on mine.  It's same one that was in the boat when I bought it in 2011 (used) but the thing looks like brand new (Interstate) and I keep it in my basement (on wood despite the fact that you don't have to do that anymore) along with my other batteries (other boat, lawn mower, jet skiis) and charge then twice during the winter and then again in the spring right before I re-install them.
 
Battery update.....took my 10 yr. old Interstate cranking battery to be tested for the season prior to being installed in the boat..........it failed the Cold Cranking Amps test. Out of the rated 800 CCAs it only registered 362.

So I definitely got my money's worth out of that battery, the original one that came with the boat.

I ended up buying an AC-Delco Voyager Marine battery 800 CCA 1000 MCA......
 
My "house" battery (not my starting battery) is a dead car battery that wouldn't start my car several winters back.  Works just fine in the boat at 90 degrees to run the stereo though.  It wouldn't start a cold V8 engine at -20 degrees.  But that's one end of the spectrum to the other as far as battery application goes.  And a way to squeeze out the last drip of life from an old battery.  It spent 6 years in my car, and on it's third year in the boat. 

I feel the same as that old battery does most days.  I'm not as young as I used to be.  Can't do the heavy physical workload I once could. But I can float around in the boat on a hot summer day just fine!!!
 
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