The Coon Toon Project (pic heavy)

call Jon @ http://veada.com Veada is who makes Bennington furniture, Jon has helped me with adding a few items to my boat and getting the color as close as possible and customer service is beyond awesome

Ron
 
Thanks for the link Ron, I wished I'd had it five weeks ago. At this point I'm just hoping I get sent the correct material and things progress as planned. If they don't I'll be giving Veada a call.
 
I received the raw material from Bennington a couple of weeks ago and took everything to the upholstery shop. I ended up having seven areas redone and had ordered five yards of the cream material and one yard each of the blue & silver. It took almost all of the cream, I'm glad I ordered more than what we thought it would take, otherwise I would be waiting for another two months. I think he did a really good job, you can't tell what's been recovered and what's original.

I had the pop-up redone but it's not going back in the boat.

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The backrest at the end of the couch.

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The center of the helm seat.

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During the down time I added a fuel filter and a super-custom anchor container.

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Time to get her wet. After three months I was really looking forward to this.

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I'm amazed at how quiet the T50 is. I started it and sat down at the helm and thought it had died. I walked back and it was still running. No vibration through the boat like my last V hull running a 135 2-stroke.

I have to use a yard goat to get in and out of the backyard. The front of the goat is loaded down with sand so it will turn, without it the thing just goes straight.

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The hard part is done...now it's time to have fun. I'm looking forward to many happy days on the water.
 
Very nice job !!! Looks awesome.
 
Wow. Very impressive. Looks brand spankin' new!
 
Beautiful job and the upolstery turned out perfect! Now enjoy! B)
 
Thanks for the kind words.

I wanted to see if the Gord's polish alone would protect the shine but the toons looked a little hazy after just a few hours in the water so I spent today touching them up with the buffer. The Sharkhide is going on tomorrow.
 
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Maynard....just a couple of ideas I learned from my boat. Both my recliners are on one side instead of across the front, but you might try turning the seats to get a narrower profile for better visibility when moving down the lake. As for comfort, my wife says the best $2 I spent was on a "noodle" which I cut in half and then split longways. Fits right over the rail and makes propping your feet up much more comfortable. You might have already thought of these, just thought I would pass it along. Steve
 
Beautiful job Maynard, she looks brand new!

I put sharkhide on ours before it hit the water, and they still look new.

Many happy hours of boating in your future!
 
Maynard....just a couple of ideas I learned from my boat. Both my recliners are on one side instead of across the front, but you might try turning the seats to get a narrower profile for better visibility when moving down the lake. As for comfort, my wife says the best $2 I spent was on a "noodle" which I cut in half and then split longways. Fits right over the rail and makes propping your feet up much more comfortable. You might have already thought of these, just thought I would pass it along. Steve
Those are both darn good ideas, especially the noodle. That's why I was sitting backwards, my bony ankles couldn't handle the railing.

I ran into one problem putting the boat back on the trailer and I'm wondering if anyone else has similar issues. When the trailer is in the water and I'm guiding the boat onto it, the steep angle of the ramp causes the two front vertical bump stops to come in contact with the top of the front fence instead of the rub rail. I'm lucky I was pulling slowly with a bow line so there was no damage to the fence. After hooking the boat and pulling onto flat land there's about 4" between the rub rail and the bump stops, so there's potential for the boat to slide forward a bit under hard braking. The only thing I've come up with for a potential fix would be to replace the flat bump stops with some pieces cut at a 45 degree angle so the bottom sticks out farther and makes contact sooner. Anyone have a better idea?
 
Maynard....just a couple of ideas I learned from my boat. Both my recliners are on one side instead of across the front, but you might try turning the seats to get a narrower profile for better visibility when moving down the lake. As for comfort, my wife says the best $2 I spent was on a "noodle" which I cut in half and then split longways. Fits right over the rail and makes propping your feet up much more comfortable. You might have already thought of these, just thought I would pass it along. Steve
Great. I spent the last 10 minutes thinking of all the things I could do with a noodle. Come spring we won't have any left to float on!
 
Those are both darn good ideas, especially the noodle. That's why I was sitting backwards, my bony ankles couldn't handle the railing.

I ran into one problem putting the boat back on the trailer and I'm wondering if anyone else has similar issues. When the trailer is in the water and I'm guiding the boat onto it, the steep angle of the ramp causes the two front vertical bump stops to come in contact with the top of the front fence instead of the rub rail. I'm lucky I was pulling slowly with a bow line so there was no damage to the fence. After hooking the boat and pulling onto flat land there's about 4" between the rub rail and the bump stops, so there's potential for the boat to slide forward a bit under hard braking. The only thing I've come up with for a potential fix would be to replace the flat bump stops with some pieces cut at a 45 degree angle so the bottom sticks out farther and makes contact sooner. Anyone have a better idea?
I guess the reason my boat doesn't have that problem is the deck extends 18 inches or so, so it would be impossible to hit the fence. Could you somehow extend the deck? Some kind of bumper or something maybe? After seeing your restoration, I'm sure you could make that happen...
 
I'll probably mod the trailer rather than the boat, anything I add to the hull just wouldn't look right imo.
 
I ran into one problem putting the boat back on the trailer and I'm wondering if anyone else has similar issues. When the trailer is in the water and I'm guiding the boat onto it, the steep angle of the ramp causes the two front vertical bump stops to come in contact with the top of the front fence instead of the rub rail. I'm lucky I was pulling slowly with a bow line so there was no damage to the fence. After hooking the boat and pulling onto flat land there's about 4" between the rub rail and the bump stops, so there's potential for the boat to slide forward a bit under hard braking. The only thing I've come up with for a potential fix would be to replace the flat bump stops with some pieces cut at a 45 degree angle so the bottom sticks out farther and makes contact sooner. Anyone have a better idea?
Well, if you are considering taking the bump stops off anyway, why not remount them so they are lower? I'd think 4 - 6 inches lower would prevent contact with the front fence, even with the trailer at a 45 degree angle.
 
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The stops are backed up by steel so I would have to cut them off and reweld them lower.

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That's something I have the ability to do, but doing so would damage the trailer's factory finish. I'm not sure, but I think it's powdercoated instead of paint so it wouldn't look the same.

I'd like to find a couple of thick blocks of rubber to work with. The type they mount on shipping docks for trailers to back into would be about the right size and I could cut them into the right shape with a bandsaw. Hmm, I'll have to look around and see what I can come up with.
 
Cut them even with top of deck where it's at in pic on trailer. You should always be coming in at lower angle so you would probably gain 6" or so by looks of the pic.

Also issue I had, I was putting trailer too far in water. I was told just front third or so of toons should be on trailer, then winch it rest of way. If your winch is heavy duty and base is good, it should easily winch toon up to stops.

Just a couple thoughts .....

Smitty
 
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The stops are backed up by steel so I would have to cut them off and reweld them lower.

IMG_0042.jpg


That's something I have the ability to do, but doing so would damage the trailer's factory finish. I'm not sure, but I think it's powdercoated instead of paint so it wouldn't look the same.

I'd like to find a couple of thick blocks of rubber to work with. The type they mount on shipping docks for trailers to back into would be about the right size and I could cut them into the right shape with a bandsaw. Hmm, I'll have to look around and see what I can come up with.
You could take a protractor or angle finder with you next time you are out at the ramp and figure exactly what height would avoid fence contact. I agree cutting the the steel supports is not desireable. Not sure if lowering the 2x4 s the inch or two available to make them the same height as the steel supports would avoid contact. Your rubber block idea sounds good - particularly if you go with a wedge shape at the 45 degree or other angle needed. I'd make sure that the rubber is of the non-marking variety, and if not glue some bunk carpet on them.
 
Also issue I had, I was putting trailer too far in water. I was told just front third or so of toons should be on trailer, then winch it rest of way. If your winch is heavy duty and base is good, it should easily winch toon up to stops. Just a couple thoughts .....

Smitty
Good point, I've been wondering if the trailer could have been too deep, I'll have to go back and try winching up from a more shallow position. Another variable is the ramps at the lake are all different angles, in the pictures I'm on ramp 2 but yesterday they closed it off and opened the third ramp. I haven't used that one in years but as I remember it's more flat.

I need to come up with a fix for all three ramps, I don't want to do something embarrassing like lowering the bump stops and then end up with the rub rail hooked over the top of them.
 
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