The only way you might end up higher is if a wave came in and lifted the boat. When the boat is almost touching the stops, It would act like the "pivot" point and would change minimally with even a 3 foot rise to rear of toon. I would just back in less and winch further .....Good point, I've been wondering if the trailer could have been too deep, I'll have to go back and try winching up from a more shallow position. Another variable is the ramps at the lake are all different angles, in the pictures I'm on ramp 2 but yesterday they closed it off and opened the third ramp. I haven't used that one in years but as I remember it's more flat.
I need to come up with a fix for all three ramps, I don't want to do something embarrassing like lowering the bump stops and then end up with the rub rail hooked over the top of them.
It's a lot of work...and once you start you have to complete the project.I was looking at the polished pontoons as well. Can you describe the process you used to achieve this?
From the pics it looks like you polished the inboard side of the toons as well. That takes some real dedication.It's a lot of work...and once you start you have to complete the project.
The worst areas were first wet-sanded by hand with 600 grit, then everything was wet-sanded with 1500, followed by 2000. They had a low shine at that point and anything that looked a little rough got polished with Mothers Mag & Aluminum polish. The Mothers cuts pretty well and smooths the surface up nicely. I tried getting the high shine with Gord's applied by hand but it's nearly impossible. Then I tried my 10" random orbital car buffer but that didn't work either. Finally bought a Makita 9227C and that was the ticket, used it the way Gord does on his website video. The tight areas where the buffer couldn't reach were done by hand with a mix of Mothers and Gords.
Clever Steve. Until you wrote that I hadn't realized the ladder wasn't a welded part of the trailer. The weather around here is boatable year-round and I'm only ten minutes from the lake so moving the ladder a couple of times each week would indeed get old.Maynard, had the same problem with mine, the trailer part. I only pull mine out once a year and back in the spring.
My solution, and it may be too much trouble for someone who has to trailer alot. Knowing mine will be 6" back, I moved the whole ladder and stop assembly forward 6" to load and when I get it to level ground, I slide it back. Not to bad for one haul but every week would get old. Steve
Here is another option .Here is the mount .http://www.amazon.com/Grill-mount-bracket-set-Pontoon/dp/B006707CP8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367251507&sr=8-1&keywords=pontoon+grill+mountI love the Weber Q. Been wanting one myself, but the goofy legs don't lend well to rail mounting on a pontoon boat. But, your mounting this to a cutting board got me thinking...
If the cutting board was longer, and extended back behind the grill say a foot or so (wouldn't have to be that much), one could put a rod (PVC or metal) through two of the lifting eyes on the bow-end of two pontoons (on a tri-toon boat), then you'd set the grill on the rod, with the weight of the grill forward of the rod, and the extended end of the cutting board fitting under the rub rail, cantilevering the grill out over the rod that's between the eyes. Hope you can envision what I'm saying. You'd have to be beached to use the grill as it would face outward, but you could just as easily face it inward and then sit on the bow next to it and grill while anchored. This way you wouldn't have to mount a post on the boat, or scratch up the rails with a bracket, and it would all come apart simply for storage without the use of tools.
So, my question is, where did you put the bolts through the legs? I don't see them in the picture. I had discounted getting a Q because the shape of the legs doesn't lend them to easy mounting to anything really, but since you've managed to do this, I'm curious how you did it.
A close-up pic would be great, but a simple explanation works too!