If you new to boating than you might not know the lake that you will be boating on vary well. I would suggest staying with an aluminum prop because they are more forgiving if you hit something. Aluminum props are pritty cheap compared to replacing the lower unit.
Ive had good luck with that "Totally Awesome" you know the ad seen on TV stuff and Mr Clean magic erasers used together. Ive never tried it on diesel soot though.
I see there are many brand of AL props. Are any better than others? are there any to stay away form? I plan on sticking with AL props to the lake being Shallow.
I have a 2010 SLi 24 2 25" tubes with a 115 hp Yamaha. Currently the prop is a 13.5x15p. The WOT RPM is 5200-5300 which seems low. Is there a prop that would work better? Yamaha performance bulliton used a 14x13p prop but the boat was a tri toon. Any suggestions?
I use these there expensive now back when we used to ride dirtbikes and fourwheelers they were cheep. with the hose on it makes it so easy to fill.
www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4/22/259/7342/ITEM/LC-5-Gallon-Utility-Jug.aspx...
My 2010 24SLi has 4 poles and the cover also has 4 vents. Sounds like your missing a vent. My poles are 4 different lenths. I just remember which ones go where. Like Looneymoose said: Not to tight, just snug enough. If it is to loose water will pool in the back corner where the seat curves.
I always take the battery out of the boat for the winter, put it in the basement with a battery tender on ot so the battery is always fully charged. a battery that is left uncharged will sulfate the lead plates in side and reduce the batterys charge capacity. I would suggest putting it on a...
You may want to check your state laws as this is not a legal location in all states.
Michigan DNR states they have to be as high above the water line as practical. So my numbers are on the side panel just below the rail. I had custom vinyl letters made to match the java metallic graphics.
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