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Oct 2023 Update: Added LED Bar Light for Docking

DaveyJ said:
The boat sits so rear heavy that the stock lights aim at the sky.
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You could have easily solved that problem with sandbags in the front bench.
(sorry, couldn't resist this inside joke)
:rolleyes:
 
I liked those small ones on each side. I might try these - they are rated IP69K which apparently means they can withstand power washing:

1594937285156.png
 
FWIW, the newer SS docking lights are MUCH brighter than the old ones. I had a 2011 RCW and the lights were... adequate. The 2021 R25's lights look the same externally, but when you turn them on at night they're BRIGHT. Much better. Here's my docking view with lights on:

Screen Shot 2020-12-09 at 12.58.50 PM.png
 
CLDave said:
FWIW, the newer SS docking lights are MUCH brighter than the old ones. I had a 2011 RCW and the lights were... adequate. The 2021 R25's lights look the same externally, but when you turn them on at night they're BRIGHT. Much better. Here's my docking view with lights on:
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That’s a HUGE improvement. Mine SS ones are adequate at best (2017). I have often wondered about adding something for docking, but ended up reoriented an exterior cottage spot light instead.
 
Supercommode said:
I got a little excited and hooked up my lights without doing a write up. I ordered the Amphenol AT connectors from alliedelec.com (AT04-2P-KIT01) which plug right in to the pre-run wires on my 2020 20SFV. I ordered 2x 7" LED light bars and mounted them on the outer side of the pontoons. There was already a pre-drilled hole there for me to mount them. The whole project cost me about $50 and took about 45 min to do. The lights are super bright and I can't wait to try them out at night. If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask.
View attachment 27011View attachment 27019
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Thanks for the write up, did you connect to the stock green connectors? We have 2020 SFV as well and about choked when our local Benny dealer quoted a little over $1000 to install the SS Benny dock lights.
 
sunedog said:
Disclaimer: Don't use your docking lights for anything but docking. They are not headlights to be used out on open water. Be aware they will night blind anyone close looking at your boat. Use them only when necessary.

The LED docking lights that came from the factory on my 2011 2275 GCW are rated at 1 Lumen each. OK, I made that up. But let's just say they are....underwhelming. I read on another thread here that someone added an LED bar light under the front deck. So I ended up doing that as well. I documented my project in case anyone else wants to do it.

I bought this 13" bar light from Tractor Supply for $99 plus tax. It was in stock.
View attachment 26625

It is marketed to off road enthusiasts and is rated at IP68 which means it is suitable for continuous immersion. It is heavy gauge steel and feels very sturdy.
View attachment 26626

I like the Deutsche style connector with the contacts buried deep inside.
View attachment 26627

I had to add my own lengths of wire. There is nothing significant about the yellow color I used. It is what I had available. I used crimp style butt connectors with integral shrink tubing. I crimped them with a dedicated crimping tool. If you're going to do any 12 volt wiring in your lifetime, invest in a $20 crimping tool. It will make foolproof butt connections.
View attachment 26628

Then I heated the ink shrink tubing that is attached to the butt connectors. It may be overkill, but I added a second layer of clear heat shrink tubing next. These wires may be subjected to direct spray under the bow and I don't want them to fail.
View attachment 26629

Then I put the wires in a piece of 3/8" split wire loom to protect them further. A wrap of black electrical tape and a shot of silicone in the end will keep most of the water out.
View attachment 26630

I mounted the light bar to the second cross beam under the bow and routed the wire loom to the starboard bow. I found the wire that supplies juice to the starboard factory docking light using a 12 volt test light. I cut it (with it's ground) so I could splice my new yellow and black wires into that circuit. I would have used butt connectors here, but two wires wouldn't fit in the connectors I have. So I ended up soldering them and then covering them with shrink tubing and wire loom. I fastened all wires securely to the underside of the deck with plastic P clips and stainless steel screws.
View attachment 26631

The way I chose to wire it, the new LED bar light comes on with the factory docking lights using the factory docking light switch. I could have wired them to a separate switch, but I can't think of a reason I'd want the underwhelming factory docking lights on without the LED bar light, or vice versa. And it was a lot easier this way.

I was able to mount the light without any drilling at all. I had to remove the bolt holding the metal strap that connects joist 2 with joist 3, but I put it back in the bracket that came with the bar light. The two other bolts that came with the bar light coincidentally lined up perfectly with two holes already found in the joist.
View attachment 26632

I tested the light from my dock. I'm back in a narrow cove and really need a strong dock light when we come home late. I am really happy with the light output.
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Thank you for the pictures and info , assembled same light today . I have a live well switch on dash but did not get the livewell so I just used that plug with a 14 ft Deutsch extension to get to the front.
Ed
 
A year and a half ago I sold the boat this thread was about. The docking lights on my current 2017 2375 RSB also did not meet my expectations so I added a similar auxiliary docking light to it.

I used a similar, but smaller, bar light from Tractor Supply. The one I used on the former boat was 4320 Lumens and was, frankly, overkill. So I went with this 2160 lumen model. It was $89.99 plus tax and in stock on the shelf at my local store.

IMG_2144.jpg

And I tried a new splicing method to tap into the existing two wires going to the port side factory dock light. I used these non-insulated butt connectors with a diameter large enough to put two18 gauge wires into them. (I'm guessing on the wire gauge I was was working with. They could be 16 gauge.)
Screenshot 2023-11-02 at 12.48.33 PM.png


I went this route because it allowed for a streamlined result that I could protect with shrink wrap. The black and gray/black stripe wires are factory and the yellow wires are the ones I added. (I had a leftover spool of yellow stranded 18 gauge wire from an irrigation project). Look closely and you'll see I added an extra scrap of yellow wire to each butt connector to take up space on the side with only one wire. Don't miss the shrink wrap -- it's clear. The end result is tight and secure.

IMG_2068.jpg

I thought I took a pic of the light after installation, but now realize I didn't. The boat is in storage now or I'd go get one.

This is an easy, worthwhile project.
 

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sunedog said:
A year and a half ago I sold the boat this thread was about. The docking lights on my current 2017 2375 RSB also did not meet my expectations so I added a similar auxiliary docking light to it.

I used a similar, but smaller, bar light from Tractor Supply. The one I used on the former boat was 4320 Lumens and was, frankly, overkill. So I went with this 2160 lumen model. It was $89.99 plus tax and in stock on the shelf at my local store.



And I tried a new splicing method to tap into the existing two wires going to the port side factory dock light. I used these non-insulated butt connectors with a diameter large enough to put two18 gauge wires into them. (I'm guessing on the wire gauge I was was working with. They could be 16 gauge.)



I went this route because it allowed for a streamlined result that I could protect with shrink wrap. The black and gray/black stripe wires are factory and the yellow wires are the ones I added. (I had a leftover spool of yellow stranded 18 gauge wire from an irrigation project). Look closely and you'll see I added an extra scrap of yellow wire to each butt connector to take up space on the side with only one wire. Don't miss the shrink wrap -- it's clear. The end result is tight and secure.



I thought I took a pic of the light after installation, but now realize I didn't. The boat is in storage now or I'd go get one.

This is an easy, worthwhile project.
Click to expand...
I have been a bit disappointed with my 2 1,000 lumen LEDs - work great for docking, but when out on the lake on a no moon night - it does not compare to my buddies 6,000 lumens of light (we don't drive with them on, other than short bursts if getting close to shore or buoys - generally we are the only ones out there).
 
Wow Well done. Hopefully you can post a video of a night docking for us to see
 
Nice explanation. My boat came with docking lights. I purchased a Goodsmann waterproof rechargeable spotlight which works for docking and seeing other things around docks that are not right in front of you also for finding channel marks at night too. My wife complained that she could not find the dock from across the lake (even though the Simrad points me in the direction) so I put red and green lights on the dock. I turn them on from about a mile away using SIRI, the lights are tied into the Apple Homekit app.
 
sunedog said:
A year and a half ago I sold the boat this thread was about. The docking lights on my current 2017 2375 RSB also did not meet my expectations so I added a similar auxiliary docking light to it.

I used a similar, but smaller, bar light from Tractor Supply. The one I used on the former boat was 4320 Lumens and was, frankly, overkill. So I went with this 2160 lumen model. It was $89.99 plus tax and in stock on the shelf at my local store.

View attachment 35051

And I tried a new splicing method to tap into the existing two wires going to the port side factory dock light. I used these non-insulated butt connectors with a diameter large enough to put two18 gauge wires into them. (I'm guessing on the wire gauge I was was working with. They could be 16 gauge.)
View attachment 35052


I went this route because it allowed for a streamlined result that I could protect with shrink wrap. The black and gray/black stripe wires are factory and the yellow wires are the ones I added. (I had a leftover spool of yellow stranded 18 gauge wire from an irrigation project). Look closely and you'll see I added an extra scrap of yellow wire to each butt connector to take up space on the side with only one wire. Don't miss the shrink wrap -- it's clear. The end result is tight and secure.

View attachment 35054

I thought I took a pic of the light after installation, but now realize I didn't. The boat is in storage now or I'd go get one.

This is an easy, worthwhile project.
Click to expand...
Just a note to anyone else reading this, highly recommend you get double wall shrink tubing as it has a layer of "glue" inside that helps seal it. And also make sure that you heat the tubing enough that the ends shrink completely (witht the double wall you will see a bit of glue ooze out the end. In this pic just above you can see that it isn't actually fully shrunk yet. Notice the end is still a little misshapen and not perfectly round, also the one I the back you can see that one section the black wire underneath is glossy looking where the rest of it isn't. Could be caused by two things, first is the tubing isn't quite completely finished sealing, or if using a torch or flame it singed the tubing. I always prefer to use a heat gun, or that little Weller unit with the 'air nozzle tip' for heat shrinking. Just my thoughts, and maybe the pic was taken before it was completely finished, if so no worries, just thought I'd mention it.

This is the Portasol, which is the same as the Weller and Snap-On tool, 13:13 shows the heat shrinking

 
BulldogsCadillac said:
Just a note to anyone else reading this, highly recommend you get double wall shrink tubing as it has a layer of "glue" inside that helps seal it. And also make sure that you heat the tubing enough that the ends shrink completely (witht the double wall you will see a bit of glue ooze out the end. In this pic just above you can see that it isn't actually fully shrunk yet. Notice the end is still a little misshapen and not perfectly round, also the one I the back you can see that one section the black wire underneath is glossy looking where the rest of it isn't. Could be caused by two things, first is the tubing isn't quite completely finished sealing, or if using a torch or flame it singed the tubing. I always prefer to use a heat gun, or that little Weller unit with the 'air nozzle tip' for heat shrinking. Just my thoughts, and maybe the pic was taken before it was completely finished, if so no worries, just thought I'd mention it.
Click to expand...

I'm always looking to up my wiring skills. Thanks for the tips!
 
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