How to run amp power from battery to helm?

[davidard]

Do folks normally install a second battery as a back-up when running high power audio systems? Just curious. I run with the stock audio system but do have a second battery for my Ultra Legs.

I definitely recommend 2 batteries (at a minimum) when installing the upgraded sound systems. When you start considering the amount of power required to drive the system, you don't want to be depending on the same battery to start the boat after floating for a period of time. The cost to have a dead boat towed back to a marina will most likely outweigh the cost of a second battery and switch so definitely worth the investment!

 

[basshawk84]

I mounted mine under the helm on a piece of mariner grade plywood on the wall toward the drivers seat. Keeps everything off the floor and dry plus you still have storage room on the floor.

 

[davidard]

I mounted mine under the helm on a piece of mariner grade plywood on the wall toward the drivers seat. Keeps everything off the floor and dry plus you still have storage room on the floor.

How did you adhere the board to the wall under the helm?

 

[basshawk84]

I used rubber spacers and two stainless screws from the driver side of the helm.

 

[Chris Deel]

My installer took ours to a marina he does some install work for and used their rack, pulling the under skirt isn't awful if you have a good way to access it, you may want to check with your local marina to see if you can use theirs.

When you pulled the under skirt, was it just the rivets or was it also spot welded or glued. I tried taking a panel off my new 2021 Bennington and even with 5 rivets removed, it was still held up firmly. Thanks

 

[fiddlebick]

I am currently without a boat, as I sold my Benny to make way for a tritoon...but on the old boat, When I mounted my JL amp on the '05 under the helm, I cut a blank of plywood to mount the amp to and used Liquid Nails to secure the plywood base to the helm. Then just screwed the amp to the plywood. This got the amp about 8" off the deck.

 

[Magician]

I’m thinking you might be confusing the Waveshield for the side skirts on each side of the boat. The side skirts are close out panels between the decking and top of the toons and mine are held on by about 20 bolts, washers and self lockers. Once you unbolt the starboard side you have access to all of the boats engine harnesses and can see clearly to the other side. All those cables are routed through channels on top of the toons that offers some protection but mainly keeps them centralized. I take mine off to clean the toons so I don’t end up with streaks and that’s were I ran all of the cabling for my amps, subs and all the new speaker wiring. Mine are coming off tomorrow and I’ll take pics.

 

[Chris Deel]

I’m thinking you might be confusing the Waveshield for the side skirts on each side of the boat. The side skirts are close out panels between the decking and top of the toons and mine are held on by about 20 bolts, washers and self lockers. Once you unbolt the starboard side you have access to all of the boats engine harnesses and can see clearly to the other side. All those cables are routed through channels on top of the toons that offers some protection but mainly keeps them centralized. I take mine off to clean the toons so I don’t end up with streaks and that’s were I ran all of the cabling for my amps, subs and all the new speaker wiring. Mine are coming off tomorrow and I’ll take pics.

Yes please take pics. I was under the boat trying to remove one of the wave shield panels directly under helm area where I currently have an amplifier that has wires ran down a hole and goes across the top of toons across to the battery area under back lid of boat. I was also gonna remove a wave panel under the battery area to help assist up that hole to batteries. It just seems the panels are also spot welded from top as I took off 5 rivets and that wave shield end still is attached and can’t pry it down without bending it. It is still attached at point where I removed rivets. It seems so difficult to get to wiring now. Thank u!
Chris

 

[Magician]

This is the close out panel. Removed mine today.

 

[Chris Deel]

This is the close out panel. Removed mine today.

Was it difficult to get to bolts and remove? Give you good view under boat to run wires? Thanks

 

[rbtnt]

I removed the side panels on mine last year to move the battery and run wires for lights and amps. I used chimney sticks to run most of the wires. Small hooks made from clothes hangers were used to grab wires through new and existing holes in the floor.

On my boat, the rear 2 bolts were a little tricky to get out, but doable.

 

[Magician]

When I go back tomorrow I’ll take some better pictures and yes you can see from side to side and youll find all of the existing pass-thru holes which keeps you from having to put more holes in the boat. I use a fiberglass fish tape and several extra long HVAC Zip ties superglued together to push or pull wires around. I put most of my wiring in looms as well. Others will tell you less involved easier ways but I’m old school when it comes to running wires. Been doing it for over 35 years so I’m set in my ways.

Bolts are easy to get to for the most part using ratcheting wrenches, 9/16” with self lockers. Panel is not heavy but is a bit awkward if your solo. I slide mine under the boat on the trailer while I’m doing my stuff on the boat or around it.

Im replacing one of my batteries and both of my battery trays since I managed to break the posts at some point last year. Also moving my amps under the rear seat on the port side to offset a slight lean to starboard my boat seems to have.

 

[Chris Deel]

When I go back tomorrow I’ll take some better pictures and yes you can see from side to side and youll find all of the existing pass-thru holes which keeps you from having to put more holes in the boat. I use a fiberglass fish tape and several extra long HVAC Zip ties superglued together to push or pull wires around. I put most of my wiring in looms as well. Others will tell you less involved easier ways but I’m old school when it comes to running wires. Been doing it for over 35 years so I’m set in my ways.

Bolts are easy to get to for the most part using ratcheting wrenches, 9/16” with self lockers. Panel is not heavy but is a bit awkward if your solo. I slide mine under the boat on the trailer while I’m doing my stuff on the boat or around it.

Im replacing one of my batteries and both of my battery trays since I managed to break the posts at some point last year. Also moving my amps under the rear seat on the port side to offset a slight lean to starboard my boat seems to have.

Great info, thank you. I’ll take the side skirts and go that route. I have fish tape and the fiberglass rods to run wires so once I have a good view, I can roll on with project. I like to do it same way as you, secure wires and place them in corrugated protective covering. Gonna do it, do it right the first time! Thanks for all the great details on removing those panels!

 

[rbtnt]

While you are there, you may want to look at the wiring for amps, controls/gauges or power steering. I put my exposed power steering wiring in split loom while I was doing the other wiring. Good luck on your project.

 

[Magician]

Here’s some other photos with the panels off. Should give you a good idea what you have when yours are off.
Your welcome, just trying to help someone learn from stuff my anal ADHD madness.

 

[Chris Deel]

Here’s some other photos with the panels off. Should give you a good idea what you have when yours are off.
Your welcome, just trying to help someone learn from stuff my anal ADHD madness.

That’s awesome! Thank you. That should be the view I need. Did u have to take off other side also to get wiring you fished across. I have to bring them from the side you have off over to the battery compartment in left rear of boat. Didn’t know if the cross member bars created any fishing problems with how they run under boat. Your help has been very appreciated!

 

[Chris Deel]

While you are there, you may want to look at the wiring for amps, controls/gauges or power steering. I put my exposed power steering wiring in split loom while I was doing the other wiring. Good luck on your project.

I will do that. Thanks for the great advice. I’m excited to start!

 

[tothetrail]

I was able to fish a pex tube the whole length of the boat, from the rear cabinet with the sink and water pump to the front for a washdown, through that wire chase, without having to remove those side panels. Now, it would have been WAY easier to do it without the panel in place, but save for a few bruises on my forearms from sticking my hands in between the openings, it was doable, and it only took maybe a half hour.

 

[CLDave]

When I did my underwater RGB lights, I fished the wire from the helm to the stern using fiberglass rods. I started to take off the side skirts, but it looked to me like the bolts would just spin and I'd never get them back on again, so I abandoned that idea.

Did you have any trouble getting the skirts on and off?

Thanks for sharing!

 

[Magician]

Both of mine are off right now. The skirts are a bit of work to get off but mostly easy. Bolts go up thru the skirt and a washer and locknut are on the top. All are 9/16”. You can see mostly straight thru from one side to the other except where the wiring or center toon get in the way. There are several paths most of the wiring goes thru with stragglers scattered all over. The panels aren’t heavy but they are awkward if your by yourself.

Mine we’re coming off to clean the toons as well as the minor mid life crisis of a stereo upgrade plus my seat has creaking noise and I want to put some larger washers on and see if that takes care of it. Good luck and reach out if you need anything else.